Conditions as of June 2015: Exceptionally dry conditions this spring made for an early season on this climb, which normally seeps until late July. I climbed it June 16 2015 and the climb was entirely dry, with only a slightly damp section on pitch 1. The cracks are somewhat mossy as one would expect from a north wall subalpine route, but nothing that detracted from the enjoyment of the route.
NOTE: This picture is actually a picture of me OFF ROUTE on a route called ‘Uknown’!! I didn’t traverse far enough along the wall (300 meters). There is an initial ledge and chimney which somewhat matches the beta of the route, about 150 meters along the traverse. Judging by how worn the rock is here, many parties get off-route. There is rap tat, bail biners, etc at the top of the pitch. We rapped down and found the actual start by continuing to traverse the wall until we saw hand-ropes leading to Tigger Ledge.
The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers (5.11a) ****
* Bring bug dope
* Dress WARM. This is a chilly north wall even when the valley is hot
* Gets morning sun, afternoon shade. The sun leaves the wall around 1pm
* Rap the route with double ropes
* Crack glove recommended due to sharp rock
* The rock on this climb is absolutely bomber
* Bring a full double rack with quadruples of .75 and #1, triples of #2 (unless you’re Marc Leclerc, in which case forget the rack and onsight solo this thing!)
* 4wd high clearance vehicle recommended
* You can retreat at any time (except from the gear anchor pitch) with double ropes
* All stations are bolted (except for the gear anchor pitch) with solid bolts and rap stations
4wd required, high clearance recommended. Head down Mamquam Forest Road and reset your odometer at the Apron parking lot. At the chlorine shack, hang a right, then motor up the rough road until you get a view of the cliff at roughly 7km. Continue another 1 km to a prominent washed out slide area, can’t miss it. Park at the washout. About 5 meters downhill from the parking, leave the road and follow the slide down to the river over rocks (no schwacking), then look left and see a rope bridge. Cross the bridge or ford the river, and follow a good trail up steeply to the base of the wall (30-40 minutes from the car, depending on how much gear your snuck into your partner’s pack). At the base of the wall, traverse rightward for about 300 meters. There is a red sling around a tree after about 150 meters; KEEP GOING, THIS IS NOT THE START OF THE CLIMB. Finally you will see a knotted rope leading up to Tigger Ledge. This IS the start of the climb.
RACK: Full double rack to #3, extras of .5, .75, #1 and #2
ROPES: Doubles, or bring a tag line for the rappel
Pitch 1: 50 meters (5.9). Follow easy ledges to a damp, rather mossy left-facing corner. Climb the corner to an easy chimney with a hand-crack at the back, which takes awesome gear (#2s). The crux is getting into the chimney, with a mossy, usually damp, somewhat poorly protected crack move.
Pitch 2: 50 meters (5.9). Take the lefthand corner crack with good pro and fun climbing, eventually traversing rightward to emerge on Scratching Post Ledge.
Pitch 3: 30 meters. (5.7) Climb rightward and downhill on easy terrain, clip an intermediate anchor, then make a balancy 5.7 (felt harder..) traverse move (crux) rightward into a hand crack. The traverse move was tricky; the crack is super easy. You could link pitch 3 and 4 by soloing the pitch (reasonable, since the crux doesn’t protect and the rest of the pitch is easy). If linking, do NOT clip the intermediate anchor as it would create drag. If not linking, then build a gear anchor at a nice ledge.
Pitch 4: 40 meters. (5.10b) Climb the bottoming, flaring hand crack. The hands are occasionally really bad, but the feet in the crack are usually decent. Stout for the grade. Bring quadruples of .75-1inch and save a #2 for the top.
Pitch 5: 30 meters. (5.9) Climb an easy hand crack straight up off the belay, then make a difficult hand-traverse move leftward (crux). This crux is reachy and will feel hard if you’re short. Layback the crack, clip a bolt, and continue upward on somewhat runout climbing to a decent foot ledge, put in a #1 camalot, then make a leftward traverse move and continue upward on an easy crack to the belay. A very nice pitch, stout in the grade if you’re short.
Pitch 6: 45 meters. (5.11a or 5.10c A0) Climb a progressively-harder crack until it peters out into spicy, slightly runout face moves to reach a bolt. Clip another bolt and climb a thin corner slab (crux) which is graded 5.11a but feels a little easier, maybe 5.10c/d.
Pitch 7: 45 meters. (5.9) Go up the hand crack, then undercling rightward to another crack, and continue up to a sloping ledge, then climb a dirty corner.
RAPPELS: Bring double ropes. The rap stations are all in good condition as of June 2015