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The Great Game (5.10d Trad) – Squamish

The Great Game (5.10d Trad) – Squamish

The Great Game (5.10d) is my vote for best 5.10+ short multipitch in Squamish. I have climbed it literally dozens of times.  The first pitch is almost certainly best-of-its-grade anywhere in Canada, a 60 meter 5.10d sustained crack that starts with pumpy laybacking and jamming, followed by some delicate moves up an ambiguous corner, followed by a crux finger crack traverse with poor feet, followed by 20 meters of easier, but steep, climbing – and by this time you might be out of gear! Bring a monster rack for pitch one.  Pitch two is an easy 5.7 but DO NOT STOP at the first set of chains on the left! Keep going until you see a steep corner on the left, and make a gear belay on the obvious easy ledgy face cracks.   This way you can keep an eye on your climber as he or she ascends the thin 5.10c corner.  The corner has one bolt and some thin gear above the bolt – the key piece is a green alien and/or a .3 metolius mastercam.  This is a fun pitch.  Look for little crimpers out left as you slab climb above the bolt.  The final pitch involes a few thuggish overhanging reachy sport moves (2 bolts) followed by a really fun traverse up corners and ledges to the right to the end of the route.  Walk off or rappel the standard Squaw rap line at the top of Jungle Warfare.  Gear: Full double rack to #3, triples recommended of .5, .75, 1, and maybe an extra #3 as well.

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About Jesse James

Jesse James is a Canadian rock climber, venture capitalist, futurist, philosopher, technologist, physicist, vegan, social activist, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

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