Sentry Box 5.12a Trad Squamish

Sentry Box 5.12a Trad Squamish

Sentry Box (5.12a) is a CLASSIC 5.12 trad testpiece located at Murrin Park in Squamish.  The short approach (5 mins) gets you warmed up for the main event, a 30 meter splitter crack with a thin-fingertips crux near the top.  The first half of the climb goes easily at 5.10, followed by a no-hands-rest on a ledge, then a few 5.10+ moves deposit you at the start of the business; 2 meters of wicked thin finger crack moves.  If you’re strong enough or tall enough you might be able to just campus on shitty finger locks, otherwise move rightward and treat it as a slabby crack.  The crux protects well but you will need to punch it above your gear.  I place a bomber .3 BD and a #4 or #5 DMM nut from a bomber hand jam, then I gun it through the crux to a sick fingerlock and place a .75.  Then just gun it to the top .. I mean, Hell, why not?!

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About Canadian Rock Climber

I am professional Canadian rock climber, author, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

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