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Road to Amritsar (5.11c) – New Delhi Cliff – Squamish

Road to Amritsar (5.11c) – New Delhi Cliff – Squamish

topo

FFA and Route Development: Harry Young (2015)

Topo: Copyright Harry Young

A BIG thanks to Harry Young for developing this route and this entire crag. The amount of work that went into this route is HEROIC.  I can’t even imagine how he did it.  The route is super clean with no choss or loose blocks anywhere, nor any moss.  New routes need traffic to keep them clean and moss free so go climb it!  The New Delhi Cliff has one other developed route (Ganges, 5.11c) which seeps a lot more than Road to Amritsar, and it doesn’t look quite as good (although the money pitch might be the best pitch on the entire cliff).

WARNING: This area is under active development. Wear a HELMET and be very careful if route developers are working above you!

BELAYS: All bolted stations

GEAR BETA:
Highly subjective, but I recommend Doubles to #1 camalot, extras in the black alien to .3 size for the 11c corner pitch (depends how comfortable you are running it out a bit on small gear).  One each of #2, #3, #4 camalot.  You could bring a #6 for the ‘offwidth’ bit, which is only 1 meter long, but the move isn’t even particularly hard.  A #5 is NOT useful on the climb.  The climb doesnt traverse much so 10 runners is plenty.  A standard rack of nuts should be fine (I placed two nuts on the entire route). One 60 meter rope.

RAPPEL:
After finishing the route, traverse leftward for a few meters through the forest to an obvious rap station.  First rap is short (10 meters) followed by three thirty meter raps straight down.  Yes, there is a station on the blank mossy slab specifically for rapping.

APPROACH BETA:
Approach as for Top Shelf / Dihedralands (about 3 km down Mamquam FSR, just before the bridge).  Head up the trail about 10 minutes until it branches right (cairn) on an obviously-new trail.  Keep going up the trail about 25 more minutes to reach the base of the obvious large cliff.

ROUTE START:
Traverse along the base of the crag until you can pull up a few fixed lines to a large flat platform.  This is just past the start of Ganges and a bolted route.

PITCH ONE:
Gear up on the flat rock platform, then crack climb up the gently-overhanging hand crack for a few meters, then pull rightward on a jug into another gently overhanging hand and finger crack.  Good protection. Climb the crack straight up to the chains, with a fingerlock crux at the top.  Felt easier than the stated grade of 5.11a.

PITCH TWO:
Traverse leftward and up to a big ledge, then walk along the ledge rightward to the base of a wicked dihedral capped by a small roof.  5.7/8 ?

PITCH THREE:
Climb the wicked vertical dihedral using whatever corner crack trickery you have in your arsenal (hopefully some!).  This pitch felt hard for the grade of 11c but maybe I was using bad technique.  Good protection but sometimes tricky to place.  Bring lots of small cams.  The chimney moves below the roof are really fun! The crux is probably getting into the chimney.  Pull the roof at the top on the left via some pumpy layback moves to reach the chains.

PITCH FOUR:
Straight up the hand crack to a short offwidth section, then traverse leftward via some pumpy 5.10+ laybacking.  Then up an easy handcrack to the chains.  The offwidth is very short and not too bad, you could protect with a #6 but it’s not really necessary as you have great gear below and above.  This pitch takes multiples of #1s, #2s and .75s.  Having a #4 is also handy.

PITCH FIVE:
In my opinion, this is the money pitch!  Climb the amazing face crack using ring locks and thin hand jams with dubious feet to a final crux near the chains where the fingerlocks are good but the feet disappear.  Hopefully you can do a pull-up or two … load up on .75s and .5s for this pitch.

PITCH SIX:
Easy 5.9 hand and fist crack straight up into the forest.

OPTIONAL PITCH 7:
You can end the climb here by traversing leftward to the rap station, or continue up the obvious splitter crack known as the ‘Pitch in the forest.’  5.11c

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About Canadian Rock Climber

I am professional Canadian rock climber, author, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

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