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Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12) – Oregon Jack

Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12) – Oregon Jack

Made a short expedition to Oregon Jack Park outside Cache creek. This is a place with huge limestone walls and tons of potential; if this canyon were located in France, there would be hundreds of routes. As it is, I saw barely a dozen. We ventured off the beaten path (literally, it’s a schwack..) to find Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12), the amazing splitter crack up the center of an otherwise blank face. It is, indeed, an incredible climb, but pretty much unclimbable at the moment. As I approached the final move to the chains, passing the crux, I noticed a bail biner on the final bolt. That’s odd, I thought, because the final move didn’t look very hard – just an easy handjam. Then I put my hand in there, heard a weird noise, pulled out my hand and saw a bat scurrying out of the crack towards me – and bailed. Clean whipper, but that was the end of the climb. No way I’m jamming my hand in there with a fucking bat. For both safety reasons and ecological reasons (this is a blue-listed spotted bat), I would not recommend climbing Jedi Mind Tricks…

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About Canadian Rock Climber

I am professional Canadian rock climber, author, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

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