FEATURED ARTICLES
Grub Street (5.11a Trad) – Squamish Rock Climb

Grub Street (5.11a Trad) – Squamish Rock Climb

Grub Street is a beautiful climb on the Malamute that DRIES FAST and can usually be climbed year-round.  The first pitch starts on Old Style, which is kind of a sandbagged 5.9 (Peter Croft, what do you expect?!).  For the next pitch, you can climb Cider Crack at 5.10a directly up, or traverse the ledge rightward to climb Grub Street, the splitter 5.11a finger crack that is one of the best of its grade at Squamish.  This splitter eats nuts for breakfast!  Next you can go up a crack to the right followed by a tenuous slab (bolts) at 5.10b, or traverse the ledge leftward to climb a 5.10c slab up past a bolt and then into a thin crack, followed by some sketchy gear-protected slab moves over an overlap to a corner and then a layback crack to the right.  No anchors, so you have to keep going up the final 5.9 slab with horrific rope drag. Use lots of long runners. A great pitch if the rope drag doesn’t kill you.  I usually prefer the 5.10b righthand variation just to avoid the drag and stop at the midway anchors, then finish on the 5.9 slab.  All in all, an absolutely fantastic short multipitch on perfect granite!

GEAR: A light rack with lots of small nuts

Facebook Comments
0

About Jesse James

Jesse James is a Canadian rock climber, venture capitalist, futurist, philosopher, technologist, physicist, vegan, social activist, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>