Gear Scream (5.12a)

Gear Scream (5.12a)

What, a splitter crack in Skaha?  Yes, it’s true! Gear Scream (5.12a) is an awesome splitter on Flake Cliff.  The protection is good but tricky to place because it takes up your fingerlocks.  I tried to onsight the route ground-up and failed when I got scared by some of the placements right off the deck – and they were indeed sketchy.  I almost got it second-go but bungled an easy sequence above the crux .. oh well!  I found that a .3 BD, .4bd and yellow metolius mastercam worked great, but it’s easy to make a bad placement and deck on this climb, so dial your gear or just bring a crash pad and go for it – the climbing isn’t that hard.  The upper crux is committing but you won’t get hurt if you blow it.  If you get scared high up you can always scoot leftward and cheat-clip a bolt .. have fun.

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About Canadian Rock Climber

I am professional Canadian rock climber, author, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

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