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Dodging Wives (5.11c) Saddleback Lake Louise

Dodging Wives (5.11c) Saddleback Lake Louise

Ticked off another one of Gripped Magazine’s classic 15 hard rockies multipitch climbs with a clean onsight ascent of Dodging Wives (5.11c) on Saddleback. This is definitely one of the best short multipitch sport routes in the Rockies with 4 pitches of perfect rock and consistently perplexing climbing. My buddy led the first pitch in approach shoes, i took the cruxes, and Abi led the final 10a, sending her first multipitch lead, though she was somewhat obstructed by her helmet falling half off. So much to learn for new climbers. When i topped out at the belay, i noticed she was belaying me off two bolts, but one bolt was almost fully out of the rock – always check fixed hardware! On the way down her hair got stuck in the ATC on an overhanging rappel and she nearly got scalped which made for a minor epic as my friend had overshot the anchor and was marooned between stations hanging off a bolt waiting for Abi to slice off her hair… usual good times in Lake Louise!

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About Jesse James

Jesse James is a Canadian rock climber, venture capitalist, futurist, philosopher, technologist, physicist, vegan, social activist, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

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