Catharsis Crack (5.10d)


Catharsis Crack .. really was a ‘catharsis’ for me. Took a MASSIVE pendulum whipper on a #2 camalot when I went too high at the third-to-last bolt. Trying to clip the bolt at my feet when Mythos blew and down I went, sideways. Fun! This is a FANTASTIC CLIMB .. thanks to Marc-Andre LeClerc for putting this up, making Cerberus ... Read More »

Handslaughter (5.11b)


Up at Top Shelf, you will find this five-star STEEP crack climb called HandSlaughter – which totally lives up to its name! Start with an overhanging handcrack, traverse right to a corner, and then up a steep, tricky crack. Up a chimney and exit left with a wild (and painful) hand jam. SUPER FUN! Single rack to #4, doubles of ... Read More »

The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers – Fluffy Kitten Wall, Squamish


Conditions as of June 2015: Exceptionally dry conditions this spring made for an early season on this climb, which normally seeps until late July. I climbed it June 16 2015 and the climb was entirely dry, with only a slightly damp section on pitch 1. The cracks are somewhat mossy as one would expect from a north wall subalpine route, ... Read More »

Freeway (5.11d) – Squamish


Considered by many to be the best of Squamish’s hard multipitch trad lines, Freeway is an exhilarating excursion up slabby dihedrals, a massive roof, and a spectacular traverse with absurd exposure. Not my favorite hard multipitch in Squamish, but certainly an adventure. Oh, and it’s pretty spicy too! Read More »