White Feather (5.11d) Squamish


The White Feather (5.11d) might be a little over-rated as a top 100 climb. All the pitches are relatively good but not amazing, while the real standout is the white feather pitch itself. I recommend you lower your belayer a good 3 meters below the belay so that the leader does not fall on his belayer’s head. The gear is ... Read More »

Kashmir (5.11c) – Kashmir Wall Squamish


Found ourselves by accident on the Kashmir Wall today climbing a random bolted route. We had no idea the grade and just started up. I was psyched to get the onsight. Turns out this was Kashmir (5.11c), fully bolted and 30 meters. It was a FANTASTIC climb, highly recommended, perfect rock. Read More »

The Longhouse Squamish Rock Climbing Crag

The Longhouse is a phenomenal new crag developed by Charlie Long. The crag is characterized by long, pumpy, burly splitter cracks and corners. The rock is extremely bomber and almost every line is incredibly aesthetic. This is definitely one of the best crags in Squamish if you like steep, burly crack climbing. WARNING: THIS IS DEFINITELY NOT THE SMOKE BLUFFS. ... Read More »

Sunset Strip Squamish Rock Climb


THANKS TO COLIN MOORHEAD FOR PUTTING UP THIS AMAZING ROUTE!!!! Sunset Strip is the classic new line up the western dihedrals of the Chief. With sustained crack climbing and clean rock, this became an instant classic a few years ago when Colin Moorhead put it up. It’s an excellent warmup for the Grand Wall and a good workout for any ... Read More »

Split Beaver 5.10b Squamish


Split beaver! An infamous offwidth in Squamish! Bring a number 5, two number fours and wear long pants and long shirt. The crux comes at the top with a butterfly stack and a knee jam. It’s all about the Circle of Power on this climb! Might feel hard if you never climbed an offwidth .. Read More »

Grand Wall 5.11a Squamish

GrandWall traverse pitch

Extreme gear beta and sandbagging tips for the aspiring Grand Wall leader … Rope: 60 meter (committing, you can’t rappel with one rope. You can rappel from anywhere with two ropes, though it might be tricky from the top of the flats. Rack: Depends on skill, but I normally use: 2 #1 BD Camalot 1 #2 BD Camalot 1 #3 ... Read More »

Exasperator (5.10c) Squamish


Exasperator! Top 100 5.10c in Squamish and one of the best splitter finger cracks ANYWHERE. You absolutely MUST link the two pitches for maximum enjoyment and a full 50 meters of super rad climbing. Fingerlocks? Yeah, LOTS OF THAT … Read More »

Headbangers in Leather (5.11d) – Squamish


My vote for the best 11d in Squamish! Continuously thuggy, burly overhanging climbing with good protection and not-so-good rests. Fantastic power-endurance burn! An elusive hand-jam rest mid-height is the redpoint beta. Read More »

Perspective (5.11a) – Squamish Top 100


Tired of climbing slabby cracks on the Bulletheads? Check out this beast called Perspective, a steep 5.11a hand-to-finger crack at Murrin Park’s infamous Nightmare Rock. This gets my vote for best single-pitch 5.11a trad climb in Squamish. If you like steep crack, go check it out! Read More »

Cerberus (5.11d)


Cerberus is a RIDICULOUSLY AWESOME technical face climb on the Chief. Now you can link directly into Cerberus via Marc LeClerc’s CATHARSIS CRACK, requiring only a small rack for the entire adventure. Catharsis to Cerberus is sustained, technical, and wickedly fun. There are some runouts (especially on Catharsis ..) but all the falls are super safe. The first pitch of ... Read More »