Sunset Strip Squamish Rock Climb


THANKS TO COLIN MOORHEAD FOR PUTTING UP THIS AMAZING ROUTE!!!! Sunset Strip is the classic new line up the western dihedrals of the Chief. With sustained crack climbing and clean rock, this became an instant classic a few years ago when Colin Moorhead put it up. It’s an excellent warmup for the Grand Wall and a good workout for any ... Read More »

Split Beaver 5.10b Squamish


Split beaver! An infamous offwidth in Squamish! Bring a number 5, two number fours and wear long pants and long shirt. The crux comes at the top with a butterfly stack and a knee jam. It’s all about the Circle of Power on this climb! Might feel hard if you never climbed an offwidth .. Read More »

Grand Wall 5.11a Squamish

GrandWall traverse pitch

Extreme gear beta and sandbagging tips for the aspiring Grand Wall leader … Rope: 60 meter (committing, you can’t rappel with one rope. You can rappel from anywhere with two ropes, though it might be tricky from the top of the flats. Rack: Depends on skill, but I normally use: 2 #1 BD Camalot 1 #2 BD Camalot 1 #3 ... Read More »

Exasperator (5.10c) Squamish


Exasperator! Top 100 5.10c in Squamish and one of the best splitter finger cracks ANYWHERE. You absolutely MUST link the two pitches for maximum enjoyment and a full 50 meters of super rad climbing. Fingerlocks? Yeah, LOTS OF THAT … Read More »

Headbangers in Leather (5.11d) – Squamish


My vote for the best 11d in Squamish! Continuously thuggy, burly overhanging climbing with good protection and not-so-good rests. Fantastic power-endurance burn! An elusive hand-jam rest mid-height is the redpoint beta. Read More »

Perspective (5.11a) – Squamish Top 100


Tired of climbing slabby cracks on the Bulletheads? Check out this beast called Perspective, a steep 5.11a hand-to-finger crack at Murrin Park’s infamous Nightmare Rock. This gets my vote for best single-pitch 5.11a trad climb in Squamish. If you like steep crack, go check it out! Read More »

Cerberus (5.11d)


Cerberus is a RIDICULOUSLY AWESOME technical face climb on the Chief. Now you can link directly into Cerberus via Marc LeClerc’s CATHARSIS CRACK, requiring only a small rack for the entire adventure. Catharsis to Cerberus is sustained, technical, and wickedly fun. There are some runouts (especially on Catharsis ..) but all the falls are super safe. The first pitch of ... Read More »

Catharsis Crack (5.10d)


Catharsis Crack .. really was a ‘catharsis’ for me. Took a MASSIVE pendulum whipper on a #2 camalot when I went too high at the third-to-last bolt. Trying to clip the bolt at my feet when Mythos blew and down I went, sideways. Fun! This is a FANTASTIC CLIMB .. thanks to Marc-Andre LeClerc for putting this up, making Cerberus ... Read More »

Handslaughter (5.11b)


Up at Top Shelf, you will find this five-star STEEP crack climb called HandSlaughter – which totally lives up to its name! Start with an overhanging handcrack, traverse right to a corner, and then up a steep, tricky crack. Up a chimney and exit left with a wild (and painful) hand jam. SUPER FUN! Single rack to #4, doubles of ... Read More »

The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers – Fluffy Kitten Wall, Squamish


Conditions as of June 2015: Exceptionally dry conditions this spring made for an early season on this climb, which normally seeps until late July. I climbed it June 16 2015 and the climb was entirely dry, with only a slightly damp section on pitch 1. The cracks are somewhat mossy as one would expect from a north wall subalpine route, ... Read More »