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Squamish

Sentry Box 5.12a Trad Squamish

sentrybox2

Sentry Box (5.12a) is a CLASSIC 5.12 trad testpiece located at Murrin Park in Squamish.  The short approach (5 mins) gets you warmed up for the main event, a 30 meter splitter crack with a thin-fingertips crux near the top.  The first half of the climb goes easily at 5.10, followed by a no-hands-rest on a ledge, then a few ... Read More »

Crime of the Century (5.11c) Squamish

NoHandsRest

Crime of the Century is my favorite climb in the Smoke Bluffs and it’s a real testpiece for the 5.11 climber!  It is soft in the grade, with a reachy crux down low and a techy crux up high, interpersed with consistent 5.11- climbing.  This makes a great first 5.11+ trad lead.  The secret beta for this wicked finger crack ... Read More »

Wonderland 5.9 Trad Smoke Bluffs

wonderland

Wonderland (5.9) is surely the most adventurous and best 5.9 trad in the Smoke Bluffs.  The second can seldom hear the leader, the entire pitch traverses an exposed face, and the wind is usually blowing.  Fun!  Great to do this with an inexperienced second to give them a taste of adventure … Read More »

Chink in the Barrel (5.10c) Longhouse

chink6

Chink in the Barrel (5.10c) is a ridiculously awesome overhanging finger crack at the Longhouse.  If Astronomy (5.12b) on the Sheriff’s badge is a teenage cobra crack, then Chink is an infant cobra crack.  It IS overhung!  And it IS a finger crack.  Stiff, thuggish crack moves off the deck lead to a fun handcrack romp to the chains.  There’s ... Read More »

Stein Line (5.10b) Longhouse

Stein

climbing the awesome stein line (5.10+) at The Longhouse. burly hand jam corner similar to caboose at lower malute. fun!  Bring a #4 and #5 for the top.  Harder than it looks … Read More »

Krimo Gold (5.11a)

krimo

Krimo Gold is a stellar variation to the five-star Liquid Gold on the Bulletheads. The first three pitches are fantastic and sustained at 10+, while the final 70 meter 11a crux pitch is surely one of the best in its grade in Squamish.  Bring a triple rack from .3 to #3 and one #4.  The final pitch really is a ... Read More »

Coitus Interruptus (5.12b)

attempt

Ground-up attempt on Coitus Interruptus (5.12b) at Murrin Park did not go well … This climb felt sustained and pretty hard for the grade. Good pro however enabled me to top out Read More »

White Feather (5.11d) Squamish

seconding

The White Feather (5.11d) might be a little over-rated as a top 100 climb. All the pitches are relatively good but not amazing, while the real standout is the white feather pitch itself. I recommend you lower your belayer a good 3 meters below the belay so that the leader does not fall on his belayer’s head. The gear is ... Read More »

Kashmir (5.11c) – Kashmir Wall Squamish

kashmir

Found ourselves by accident on the Kashmir Wall today climbing a random bolted route. We had no idea the grade and just started up. I was psyched to get the onsight. Turns out this was Kashmir (5.11c), fully bolted and 30 meters. It was a FANTASTIC climb, highly recommended, perfect rock. Read More »

The Longhouse Squamish Rock Climbing Crag

The Longhouse is a phenomenal new crag developed by Charlie Long. The crag is characterized by long, pumpy, burly splitter cracks and corners. The rock is extremely bomber and almost every line is incredibly aesthetic. This is definitely one of the best crags in Squamish if you like steep, burly crack climbing. WARNING: THIS IS DEFINITELY NOT THE SMOKE BLUFFS. ... Read More »