FEATURED ARTICLES

Squamish

The Great Game (5.10d Trad) – Squamish

pic

The Great Game (5.10d) is my vote for best 5.10+ short multipitch in Squamish. I have climbed it literally dozens of times.  The first pitch is almost certainly best-of-its-grade anywhere in Canada, a 60 meter 5.10d sustained crack that starts with pumpy laybacking and jamming, followed by some delicate moves up an ambiguous corner, followed by a crux finger crack ... Read More »

Zombie Roof (5.13a Trad) Squamish

IMG_20160414_140310

Zombie Roof is the iconic roof crack in the Smoke Bluffs that everybody stares at – and few people ever climb.  The first true redpoint ascent wasn’t completed until 1999!  Three pieces of gear protects the climb safely – and it is too pumpy to place any more than that! Read More »

Road to Amritsar (5.11c) – New Delhi Cliff – Squamish

IMG_20160419_134533

FFA and Route Development: Harry Young (2015) Topo: Copyright Harry Young A BIG thanks to Harry Young for developing this route and this entire crag. The amount of work that went into this route is HEROIC.  I can’t even imagine how he did it.  The route is super clean with no choss or loose blocks anywhere, nor any moss.  New ... Read More »

Sentry Box 5.12a Trad Squamish

sentrybox2

Sentry Box (5.12a) is a CLASSIC 5.12 trad testpiece located at Murrin Park in Squamish.  The short approach (5 mins) gets you warmed up for the main event, a 30 meter splitter crack with a thin-fingertips crux near the top.  The first half of the climb goes easily at 5.10, followed by a no-hands-rest on a ledge, then a few ... Read More »

Crime of the Century (5.11c) Squamish

NoHandsRest

Crime of the Century is my favorite climb in the Smoke Bluffs and it’s a real testpiece for the 5.11 climber!  It is soft in the grade, with a reachy crux down low and a techy crux up high, interpersed with consistent 5.11- climbing.  This makes a great first 5.11+ trad lead.  The secret beta for this wicked finger crack ... Read More »

Wonderland 5.9 Trad Smoke Bluffs

wonderland

Wonderland (5.9) is surely the most adventurous and best 5.9 trad in the Smoke Bluffs.  The second can seldom hear the leader, the entire pitch traverses an exposed face, and the wind is usually blowing.  Fun!  Great to do this with an inexperienced second to give them a taste of adventure … Read More »

Chink in the Barrel (5.10c) Longhouse

chink6

Chink in the Barrel (5.10c) is a ridiculously awesome overhanging finger crack at the Longhouse.  If Astronomy (5.12b) on the Sheriff’s badge is a teenage cobra crack, then Chink is an infant cobra crack.  It IS overhung!  And it IS a finger crack.  Stiff, thuggish crack moves off the deck lead to a fun handcrack romp to the chains.  There’s ... Read More »

Stein Line (5.10b) Longhouse

Stein

climbing the awesome stein line (5.10+) at The Longhouse. burly hand jam corner similar to caboose at lower malute. fun!  Bring a #4 and #5 for the top.  Harder than it looks … Read More »

Krimo Gold (5.11a)

krimo

Krimo Gold is a stellar variation to the five-star Liquid Gold on the Bulletheads. The first three pitches are fantastic and sustained at 10+, while the final 70 meter 11a crux pitch is surely one of the best in its grade in Squamish.  Bring a triple rack from .3 to #3 and one #4.  The final pitch really is a ... Read More »

Coitus Interruptus (5.12b)

attempt

Ground-up attempt on Coitus Interruptus (5.12b) at Murrin Park did not go well … This climb felt sustained and pretty hard for the grade. Good pro however enabled me to top out Read More »