Blackwater Ice Climb – Squamish – WI7?


The fabulous summer sport climb Blackwater sometimes ices over, becoming a very stout-looking ice climb that must go at WI7 or WI7+. There may be some mixed climbing moves to reach the ice (M7+?). It is unknown who – if anyone – has climbed this beast, but apparently Marc Andre Leclerc scoped the base this winter, and decided not to ... Read More »

Soul Mate (5.10b slab) at Seal Cove, Squamish


This is why i come to squamish, the amazing granite! great time of year for slab. Soul Mate (10b) at Seal Cove is a must-do classic slab… Read More »

Hairpin (5.11a slab variation)


Climbed Hairpin today for the first time in a long time, a nice little route for an evening ascent. we opted for the 11a slab variation which is money! Abby took her first slab whipper on the 10a topout pitch…good shit Read More »

Nanook 5.11d Trad Squamish


Climbed NANOOK (5 pitches 5.11d) this year, amazing new route on the north walls. Seems like we made the third ascent of the route after Drew Marshall and Duncan O’Regan climbed it a few days before us. Major thanks to Danny Guestrin and Jon Rigg for their herculean effort in cleaning, developing and FA’ING this super rad line. Nanook is ... Read More »

Astronomy 5.12b Trad, Squamish


Overhanging radness on the Sheriff’s Badge! My vote for best 5.12- in Squamish. It’s like a baby Cobra Crack Read More »

Astrologger (5.11b) Trad Squamish


Astrologger aka Squamish’s biggest sandbag Read More »

Shock Collars for Christmas (5.12b) Trad at Top Shelf, Squamish


Shock Collars is a very appealing, technical crack with flared hand jams, tricky gear and a technical fingerlock .. super fun! I definitely logged some airtime at the top of this route and kept ripping a nut … Read More »

Bush Doctor (5.11b) Trad Squamish


Overhanging finger crack at White Cliff .. highly recommended! Better than the ‘top 100′ on the cliff .. Read More »

Polaris (5.12a) Trad Squamish


Climbed Polaris (10 pitches, 12a) and it was so rad! We gambled on forecast of 40% showers, brought one 60m rope and climbed it fast and light, my favorite style. No backpack, half a liter of water for myself, no food, no screwing around. Started at 1230pm and finished at 7pm. Absolutely fantastic climbing, every pitch good! A must-do classic! ... Read More »

Grub Street (5.11a Trad) – Squamish Rock Climb


Grub Street is a beautiful climb on the Malamute that DRIES FAST and can usually be climbed year-round.  The first pitch starts on Old Style, which is kind of a sandbagged 5.9 (Peter Croft, what do you expect?!).  For the next pitch, you can climb Cider Crack at 5.10a directly up, or traverse the ledge rightward to climb Grub Street, ... Read More »