Nanook 5.11d Trad Squamish


Climbed NANOOK (5 pitches 5.11d) this year, amazing new route on the north walls. Seems like we made the third ascent of the route after Drew Marshall and Duncan O’Regan climbed it a few days before us. Major thanks to Danny Guestrin and Jon Rigg for their herculean effort in cleaning, developing and FA’ING this super rad line. Nanook is ... Read More »

Astronomy 5.12b Trad, Squamish


Overhanging radness on the Sheriff’s Badge! My vote for best 5.12- in Squamish. It’s like a baby Cobra Crack Read More »

Astrologger (5.11b) Trad Squamish


Astrologger aka Squamish’s biggest sandbag Read More »

Shock Collars for Christmas (5.12b) Trad at Top Shelf, Squamish


Shock Collars is a very appealing, technical crack with flared hand jams, tricky gear and a technical fingerlock .. super fun! I definitely logged some airtime at the top of this route and kept ripping a nut … Read More »

Bush Doctor (5.11b) Trad Squamish


Overhanging finger crack at White Cliff .. highly recommended! Better than the ‘top 100′ on the cliff .. Read More »

Polaris (5.12a) Trad Squamish


Climbed Polaris (10 pitches, 12a) and it was so rad! We gambled on forecast of 40% showers, brought one 60m rope and climbed it fast and light, my favorite style. No backpack, half a liter of water for myself, no food, no screwing around. Started at 1230pm and finished at 7pm. Absolutely fantastic climbing, every pitch good! A must-do classic! ... Read More »

Grub Street (5.11a Trad) – Squamish Rock Climb


Grub Street is a beautiful climb on the Malamute that DRIES FAST and can usually be climbed year-round.  The first pitch starts on Old Style, which is kind of a sandbagged 5.9 (Peter Croft, what do you expect?!).  For the next pitch, you can climb Cider Crack at 5.10a directly up, or traverse the ledge rightward to climb Grub Street, ... Read More »

The Great Game (5.10d Trad) – Squamish


The Great Game (5.10d) is my vote for best 5.10+ short multipitch in Squamish. I have climbed it literally dozens of times.  The first pitch is almost certainly best-of-its-grade anywhere in Canada, a 60 meter 5.10d sustained crack that starts with pumpy laybacking and jamming, followed by some delicate moves up an ambiguous corner, followed by a crux finger crack ... Read More »

Zombie Roof (5.13a Trad) Squamish


Zombie Roof is the iconic roof crack in the Smoke Bluffs that everybody stares at – and few people ever climb.  The first true redpoint ascent wasn’t completed until 1999!  Three pieces of gear protects the climb safely – and it is too pumpy to place any more than that! Read More »

Road to Amritsar (5.11c) – New Delhi Cliff – Squamish


FFA and Route Development: Harry Young (2015) Topo: Copyright Harry Young A BIG thanks to Harry Young for developing this route and this entire crag. The amount of work that went into this route is HEROIC.  I can’t even imagine how he did it.  The route is super clean with no choss or loose blocks anywhere, nor any moss.  New ... Read More »