Photophobia (5.10d) – 5 Pitches


First real rock climbing day of the season (sport climbing doesnt count) and jumped on Photophobia (5.10d trad, 5 pitches) to beat the crowds and the sun. This climb has a bit of everything, including steep hand crack, chimney work and slab. Deserves to be WAY more popular. Very classic! Read More »

Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)


The Horrors of Ivan (5.11+) is an amazing mixed climb, but I was a bit nervous after hearing how my friend Thomas (a very strong climber) ripped all his gear and decked on it. The gear at the crux is bomber but a little tricky to find at first. Definitely among the best of the grade in Squamish! Dries super ... Read More »

One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (5.10c) 5 Pitches


Casual slab climbing on the Apron. We climbed the classic One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (5.10+) which offers excellent sustained 5.10 slab work. Less runout than White Lightning but still a few ‘heads up’ moves. Makes a good early season head warmup. Read More »

Free Soloing Talking Holds


Jesse James soloing Talking Holds, overhanging 5.10 hand crack in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs .. Read More »

Memory Lane – Green River Bastion – 5.11 Mixed


Wow, the Green River Bastion in Pemberton is truly awesome! Memory Lane is a spectacular 5.11a mixed route that takes an adventurous line straight to the summit. Abigail found herself in a fine situation on the 5.10c R no-pro slab traverse… Read More »

Abi Rescued off Penny Lane During Free Solo Attempt


Abi went for an ambitious free solo of Penny Lane but had to be rescued by a nearby climber when she was unable to climb up through the crux or reverse the moves back down. It was am ambitious attempt. Read More »

Abi Soloing Corner Crack (5.8)


Abi free soloing Corner Crack (5.8) at Neat and Cool crag in Squamish. The first time she climbed it free solo we all thought she would fall. Looked a bit more solid this time. Read More »

Ice Climbing Gone Wrong – First Time on Ice


First time ever swinging the ice tools. Climber begins soloing some WI3+ ice, attempts to back off, gets stuck in an ice crack, falls out of it, lets go of the ice tool, which then falls and conks her on the head. Read More »

Bughouse Heights Ice Climbing in Squamish

Bughouse Heights

Best climb in the smoke bluffs right now is at Bughouse Heights, WI3. Not picked out at all! Ice is pretty darn fat. Might even take a couple screws, maybe. Couple of dry tool moves to reach the summit. Look at that awesome anchor with all those girth hitched slings, lovin it! Read More »

Czech It Out (WI4+) Murrin Park Squamish Ice Climbing


Climbed some sick ice today at Murrin Park Pet Wall. Nobody has been out there recently so the ice is (was) virgin. Czech It Out goes at WI4+, 15 meters of vertical ice. We hacked the drizzlin shits out of it. Blackwater is also IN. Also Nintendo64 and some sick ice directly across from parking lot is good to go. ... Read More »