The Spell (5.12a) – Skaha


The Spell (5.12a) is one of the best 12- routes in Skaha, very approachable (read: sendable) for the aspiring 5.12 climber. No really hard moves .. just endurance! Read More »

Wings of Steel (5.12d) – Skaha


Jesse James on Wings of Steel (5.12d). The Mythos (two sizes two large) performing admirably on this super rad testpiece at Great White Wall. This is the only shoe I can wear. Edging is strictly VERBOTEN! Read More »

Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a) – Skaha


Outstanding exposure on Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a), a superb trad line at Great White Wall in Skaha. A thin crack with bomber rock and gear provides the crux in the first ten meters, followed by scrambly climbing to the big roofs, which go at a much easier grade than you might expect. Bring gear to #4 including a blue and ... Read More »

Supercharger (5.10c) – Skaha


Supercharger (5.10c) is an awesome trad line at Morning Glory. The start is unprotected V1+ (not V3 as the book claims!) and there is no bomber gear until the roof, but the climbing is super easy. Roof takes bomber pro up to #3. Crux is just after the roof, but short-lived. Read More »

Apricot Headjam (5.11c) – Skaha


Apricot Headjam (5.11c?) – best mixed climb at Skaha! Skip the rotten rock on the first half of Max Headroom and climb the bolted Apricot Jam crack (or place gear on it), then move left into Max Headroom. The trad crux is only 5.10c and gear is bomber. Light single rack to #3 should suffice. 70 meter rope gets you ... Read More »

Gangbang (5.10c/d) – Skaha


Gangbang (5.10c) – my vote for best trad line in skaha. Bring a #5 for the start and small nuts for the crux, then be prepared to run it out a bit. Build a trad anchor on a ledge and belay your second up, then traverse right to bolted station and (maybe) get down on a 60. Otherwise, keep going ... Read More »