Gear Scream (5.12a)


What, a splitter crack in Skaha?  Yes, it’s true! Gear Scream (5.12a) is an awesome splitter on Flake Cliff.  The protection is good but tricky to place because it takes up your fingerlocks.  I tried to onsight the route ground-up and failed when I got scared by some of the placements right off the deck – and they were indeed ... Read More »

PHS (Piled High and Steeper) 5.10c Overhanging Offwidth


PHS – the unmistakeable overhanging offwidth crack at Doctors Wall. Sick! One of the very best trad routes in Skaha. Two fours and a five will get you up it with some bumpity-bump-bump. Three fours and a five makes life easier. Matt Maddaloni once climbed this route by hauling up rocks as pro. Badass! (I wussed out and used cams ... Read More »

Banana Bypass (5.11c) – Skaha


Banana Bypass is one of the nicest 5.11+ routes in Skaha, another classic John Fantini route which makes a rising traverse on the Maternal Wall. According to the guidebook, it’s ‘a romp if you have the pipes.’ And if you don’t the pipes? Well, you’re in for some whippers and tears … Read More »

Apricot Jam (5.12b) – Skaha


Apricot Jam is surely the absolute best 5.12b in Skaha if you like long, enduro routes with a huge variety of climbing; start with a challenging bolted crack, then a no-hands rest, then a much more challenging crack, then another no-hands rest, then a massive roof with big moves to jugs, then an enduro burn up a more-difficult-than-it-seems headwall .. ... Read More »

Scarab (5.12a) – Skaha


My vote for the BEST 5.12a in Skaha, Scarab is a classic old-school John Fantini route with a little bit of everything; a slab crux down low, a crazy body-position crux up high, an enduro finish, and healthy bolt spacing. Find it on the Isis Wall deep in the Doctors Corridor. As Fantini would say, this is a ‘proper 12a,’ ... Read More »

The Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) – Skaha

Hacker and Gasman2

Whoah, this climb is a major sandbag at 5.12a! I tried it a couple times and flailed at the first crux, then took a huge whipper at the second. Really fun route but more like 12b in my opinion. Find it at the Morning Glory Wall in skaha. Read More »

Salvation (5.12b) – Skaha


Approaching the crux on Salvation, the classic 5.12b jug-haul at the Doctor’s Wall in Skaha. This climb is definitely easier if you’re taller. The sting in the tail ruins many a strong climber’s onsight hopes … Read More »

Southwest Face of the Prow, Slow Pitch (5.10c) – Skaha


The Southwest Face of the Prow on Skaha. Man, what an epic always. It’s called ‘Slow Pitch’ because the rope drag slows you down, or in my case, stops me about 2 meters from the anchor. Use double-link slings on the initial rope or prepare to cry. I also forgot half my rack at the base of this climb, which ... Read More »

Malpractice is Now (5.11d) – Mixed Linkup – Skaha


At Doctor’s Wall in Skaha, you’ll find one of the best linkups in the park; climb a beautiful 5.10 trad corner, step right to clip a bolt, then layback and undercling up The Future is Now, a stellar 5.11d sport climb. This could be the best 5.11d in Skaha! Hint: Skip the last bolt or it will ruin your send. Read More »

Double Exposure (5.9) – Skaha


Double Exposure is one of the best of Skaha’s moderate/easy trad lines. At 5.9 (!), it is a wolf in sheep’s clothing! Spectacular rock and an awesome position make this climb a must-do. The crux is spicy if 5.9 is your max! Bring gear to #3 and an rp nicely protects the crux (but don’t fall ..). Enjoy! Read More »