The Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) – Skaha

Hacker and Gasman2

Whoah, this climb is a major sandbag at 5.12a! I tried it a couple times and flailed at the first crux, then took a huge whipper at the second. Really fun route but more like 12b in my opinion. Find it at the Morning Glory Wall in skaha. Read More »

Salvation (5.12b) – Skaha


Approaching the crux on Salvation, the classic 5.12b jug-haul at the Doctor’s Wall in Skaha. This climb is definitely easier if you’re taller. The sting in the tail ruins many a strong climber’s onsight hopes … Read More »

Southwest Face of the Prow, Slow Pitch (5.10c) – Skaha


The Southwest Face of the Prow on Skaha. Man, what an epic always. It’s called ‘Slow Pitch’ because the rope drag slows you down, or in my case, stops me about 2 meters from the anchor. Use double-link slings on the initial rope or prepare to cry. I also forgot half my rack at the base of this climb, which ... Read More »

Malpractice is Now (5.11d) – Mixed Linkup – Skaha


At Doctor’s Wall in Skaha, you’ll find one of the best linkups in the park; climb a beautiful 5.10 trad corner, step right to clip a bolt, then layback and undercling up The Future is Now, a stellar 5.11d sport climb. This could be the best 5.11d in Skaha! Hint: Skip the last bolt or it will ruin your send. Read More »

Double Exposure (5.9) – Skaha


Double Exposure is one of the best of Skaha’s moderate/easy trad lines. At 5.9 (!), it is a wolf in sheep’s clothing! Spectacular rock and an awesome position make this climb a must-do. The crux is spicy if 5.9 is your max! Bring gear to #3 and an rp nicely protects the crux (but don’t fall ..). Enjoy! Read More »

The Spell (5.12a) – Skaha


The Spell (5.12a) is one of the best 12- routes in Skaha, very approachable (read: sendable) for the aspiring 5.12 climber. No really hard moves .. just endurance! Read More »

Wings of Steel (5.12d) – Skaha


Jesse James on Wings of Steel (5.12d). The Mythos (two sizes two large) performing admirably on this super rad testpiece at Great White Wall. This is the only shoe I can wear. Edging is strictly VERBOTEN! Read More »

Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a) – Skaha


Outstanding exposure on Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a), a superb trad line at Great White Wall in Skaha. A thin crack with bomber rock and gear provides the crux in the first ten meters, followed by scrambly climbing to the big roofs, which go at a much easier grade than you might expect. Bring gear to #4 including a blue and ... Read More »

Supercharger (5.10c) – Skaha


Supercharger (5.10c) is an awesome trad line at Morning Glory. The start is unprotected V1+ (not V3 as the book claims!) and there is no bomber gear until the roof, but the climbing is super easy. Roof takes bomber pro up to #3. Crux is just after the roof, but short-lived. Read More »

Apricot Headjam (5.11c) – Skaha


Apricot Headjam (5.11c?) – best mixed climb at Skaha! Skip the rotten rock on the first half of Max Headroom and climb the bolted Apricot Jam crack (or place gear on it), then move left into Max Headroom. The trad crux is only 5.10c and gear is bomber. Light single rack to #3 should suffice. 70 meter rope gets you ... Read More »