Test of the Ironman 5.11b Skaha


Not quite as classic as its counterpart Wings of Desire, but nevertheless a must-do-classic sport route at the Great White Wall in Skaha … Read More »

Wings of Desire (5.11c) Skaha


Surely one of the best sport routes in Western Canada … Read More »

Bladerunner 5.12a Skaha


Classic five-star climb at the Belfry in Skaha – a must-do!  Steep climbing leads to a sick dyno followed by more steep climbing to a technical finish.  The final moves have seen a lot of airtime! Read More »

Firewire 5.12b Sport Skaha


I think this route is even better than Bladerunner, a pumpy skaha classic with extremely steep climbing on jugs to a handjam roof-pull finish. Rad! Read More »

Dry As a Bone (5.10c)


I intended this six bolt 5.10c sport climb to be my warmup for Apricot Jam, but then I looked up and saw gear all over the place.  I mean EVERYWHERE.  So I decided to onsight it on gear, which went fine.  I don’t understand why this climb was ever bolted .. it is such an obvious gear route.  Oh well, ... Read More »

Gear Scream (5.12a)


What, a splitter crack in Skaha?  Yes, it’s true! Gear Scream (5.12a) is an awesome splitter on Flake Cliff.  The protection is good but tricky to place because it takes up your fingerlocks.  I tried to onsight the route ground-up and failed when I got scared by some of the placements right off the deck – and they were indeed ... Read More »

PHS (Piled High and Steeper) 5.10c Overhanging Offwidth


PHS – the unmistakeable overhanging offwidth crack at Doctors Wall. Sick! One of the very best trad routes in Skaha. Two fours and a five will get you up it with some bumpity-bump-bump. Three fours and a five makes life easier. Matt Maddaloni once climbed this route by hauling up rocks as pro. Badass! (I wussed out and used cams ... Read More »

Banana Bypass (5.11c) – Skaha


Banana Bypass is one of the nicest 5.11+ routes in Skaha, another classic John Fantini route which makes a rising traverse on the Maternal Wall. According to the guidebook, it’s ‘a romp if you have the pipes.’ And if you don’t the pipes? Well, you’re in for some whippers and tears … Read More »

Apricot Jam (5.12b) – Skaha


Apricot Jam is surely the absolute best 5.12b in Skaha if you like long, enduro routes with a huge variety of climbing; start with a challenging bolted crack, then a no-hands rest, then a much more challenging crack, then another no-hands rest, then a massive roof with big moves to jugs, then an enduro burn up a more-difficult-than-it-seems headwall .. ... Read More »

Scarab (5.12a) – Skaha


My vote for the BEST 5.12a in Skaha, Scarab is a classic old-school John Fantini route with a little bit of everything; a slab crux down low, a crazy body-position crux up high, an enduro finish, and healthy bolt spacing. Find it on the Isis Wall deep in the Doctors Corridor. As Fantini would say, this is a ‘proper 12a,’ ... Read More »