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Single Pitch Trad Climbs

Headbangers in Leather (5.11d) – Squamish

Headbangers

My vote for the best 11d in Squamish! Continuously thuggy, burly overhanging climbing with good protection and not-so-good rests. Fantastic power-endurance burn! An elusive hand-jam rest mid-height is the redpoint beta. Read More »

Perspective (5.11a) – Squamish Top 100

Perspective

Tired of climbing slabby cracks on the Bulletheads? Check out this beast called Perspective, a steep 5.11a hand-to-finger crack at Murrin Park’s infamous Nightmare Rock. This gets my vote for best single-pitch 5.11a trad climb in Squamish. If you like steep crack, go check it out! Read More »

Handslaughter (5.11b)

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Up at Top Shelf, you will find this five-star STEEP crack climb called HandSlaughter – which totally lives up to its name! Start with an overhanging handcrack, traverse right to a corner, and then up a steep, tricky crack. Up a chimney and exit left with a wild (and painful) hand jam. SUPER FUN! Single rack to #4, doubles of ... Read More »

Malpractice is Now (5.11d) – Mixed Linkup – Skaha

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At Doctor’s Wall in Skaha, you’ll find one of the best linkups in the park; climb a beautiful 5.10 trad corner, step right to clip a bolt, then layback and undercling up The Future is Now, a stellar 5.11d sport climb. This could be the best 5.11d in Skaha! Hint: Skip the last bolt or it will ruin your send. Read More »

Double Exposure (5.9) – Skaha

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Double Exposure is one of the best of Skaha’s moderate/easy trad lines. At 5.9 (!), it is a wolf in sheep’s clothing! Spectacular rock and an awesome position make this climb a must-do. The crux is spicy if 5.9 is your max! Bring gear to #3 and an rp nicely protects the crux (but don’t fall ..). Enjoy! Read More »

Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a) – Skaha

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Outstanding exposure on Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a), a superb trad line at Great White Wall in Skaha. A thin crack with bomber rock and gear provides the crux in the first ten meters, followed by scrambly climbing to the big roofs, which go at a much easier grade than you might expect. Bring gear to #4 including a blue and ... Read More »

Supercharger (5.10c) – Skaha

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Supercharger (5.10c) is an awesome trad line at Morning Glory. The start is unprotected V1+ (not V3 as the book claims!) and there is no bomber gear until the roof, but the climbing is super easy. Roof takes bomber pro up to #3. Crux is just after the roof, but short-lived. Read More »

Apricot Headjam (5.11c) – Skaha

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Apricot Headjam (5.11c?) – best mixed climb at Skaha! Skip the rotten rock on the first half of Max Headroom and climb the bolted Apricot Jam crack (or place gear on it), then move left into Max Headroom. The trad crux is only 5.10c and gear is bomber. Light single rack to #3 should suffice. 70 meter rope gets you ... Read More »

Gangbang (5.10c/d) – Skaha

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Gangbang (5.10c) – my vote for best trad line in skaha. Bring a #5 for the start and small nuts for the crux, then be prepared to run it out a bit. Build a trad anchor on a ledge and belay your second up, then traverse right to bolted station and (maybe) get down on a 60. Otherwise, keep going ... Read More »