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Single Pitch Trad Climbs

Wonderland 5.9 Trad Smoke Bluffs

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Wonderland (5.9) is surely the most adventurous and best 5.9 trad in the Smoke Bluffs.  The second can seldom hear the leader, the entire pitch traverses an exposed face, and the wind is usually blowing.  Fun!  Great to do this with an inexperienced second to give them a taste of adventure … Read More »

Dry As a Bone (5.10c)

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I intended this six bolt 5.10c sport climb to be my warmup for Apricot Jam, but then I looked up and saw gear all over the place.  I mean EVERYWHERE.  So I decided to onsight it on gear, which went fine.  I don’t understand why this climb was ever bolted .. it is such an obvious gear route.  Oh well, ... Read More »

Chink in the Barrel (5.10c) Longhouse

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Chink in the Barrel (5.10c) is a ridiculously awesome overhanging finger crack at the Longhouse.  If Astronomy (5.12b) on the Sheriff’s badge is a teenage cobra crack, then Chink is an infant cobra crack.  It IS overhung!  And it IS a finger crack.  Stiff, thuggish crack moves off the deck lead to a fun handcrack romp to the chains.  There’s ... Read More »

Stein Line (5.10b) Longhouse

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climbing the awesome stein line (5.10+) at The Longhouse. burly hand jam corner similar to caboose at lower malute. fun!  Bring a #4 and #5 for the top.  Harder than it looks … Read More »

Gear Scream (5.12a)

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What, a splitter crack in Skaha?  Yes, it’s true! Gear Scream (5.12a) is an awesome splitter on Flake Cliff.  The protection is good but tricky to place because it takes up your fingerlocks.  I tried to onsight the route ground-up and failed when I got scared by some of the placements right off the deck – and they were indeed ... Read More »

Coitus Interruptus (5.12b)

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Ground-up attempt on Coitus Interruptus (5.12b) at Murrin Park did not go well … This climb felt sustained and pretty hard for the grade. Good pro however enabled me to top out Read More »

PHS (Piled High and Steeper) 5.10c Overhanging Offwidth

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PHS – the unmistakeable overhanging offwidth crack at Doctors Wall. Sick! One of the very best trad routes in Skaha. Two fours and a five will get you up it with some bumpity-bump-bump. Three fours and a five makes life easier. Matt Maddaloni once climbed this route by hauling up rocks as pro. Badass! (I wussed out and used cams ... Read More »

Split Beaver 5.10b Squamish

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Split beaver! An infamous offwidth in Squamish! Bring a number 5, two number fours and wear long pants and long shirt. The crux comes at the top with a butterfly stack and a knee jam. It’s all about the Circle of Power on this climb! Might feel hard if you never climbed an offwidth .. Read More »

Violet Hour (5.10b) Lake Louise

Violet Hour

Violet Hour (5.10b Trad) at Lake Louise is a thuggy, totally overhanging roof jug haul – how can you not love this climb?! Amazing climbing, steep jugs and bomber gear. DO IT!! Read More »

Exasperator (5.10c) Squamish

Exasperator

Exasperator! Top 100 5.10c in Squamish and one of the best splitter finger cracks ANYWHERE. You absolutely MUST link the two pitches for maximum enjoyment and a full 50 meters of super rad climbing. Fingerlocks? Yeah, LOTS OF THAT … Read More »