Single Pitch Trad Climbs

NASR (as in ‘not a sport route’)


This is pretty much the only good moderate trad climb at Roche Lake – but it is a good one! Two bolts protect the lower crux then a really fun crack eats up your gear and leads to the top of the wall. FUN. Read More »

Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)


The Horrors of Ivan (5.11+) is an amazing mixed climb, but I was a bit nervous after hearing how my friend Thomas (a very strong climber) ripped all his gear and decked on it. The gear at the crux is bomber but a little tricky to find at first. Definitely among the best of the grade in Squamish! Dries super ... Read More »

Free Soloing Talking Holds


Jesse James soloing Talking Holds, overhanging 5.10 hand crack in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs .. Read More »

Great Kootenay Corner (5.11 Trad)


The Great Kootenay Corner (5.11) is one of the sweetest trad routes in the West Kootenay, boasting flawless granite, a stellar position in a box canyon, good pro and fantastic views. Good value for the money with over 40 meters of steep corner climbing! Read More »

The Beast (5.10b Trad) @ Slocan City Bluffs


Slocan Bluffs ‘The Beast’ (5.10b), possibly so named because of the large beastly deathblock that guards the chains… Read More »

The Big Roof (5.10b) – Slocan Bluffs


The Big Roof at Slocan Bluffs, an area classic! I onsighted, but not without some effort, and the final moves felt necky. I call major sandbag at 5.10b! Read More »

Crowbar 5.10d R Trad – East Kootenays – Kootenay Crag

Crowbar (5.10d) might be the best trad line in the West Kootenays. Overhanging, pumpy and committing – if this route was in Squamish every 5.11 climber worth his salt would be lined up to have a go at it. I was psyched to onsight and even more psyched simply to not fall – the gear at the top gets fickle, ... Read More »

Ready to Strike (5.10a Trad) – Diamondback


Abi working her way over the crux roof on Ready to Strike, a splitter 30 meter corner crack at Diamondback. It’s a great testpiece for the aspriring 5.10 crack climber .. Read More »

Conductress on the #19 (5.10b Offwidth Trad)


What a monster! This 55 meter offwidth goes all the way to the top of the Fortress and eats fours, fives AND a six. absolutely stellar climb. a real adventure with bush, crumbly choss, a squeeze chimney and a committing roof pull. skaha delivers some amazing trad, i never understand why people come here just to clip bolts! I had ... Read More »

Double Exposure

Abi climbing Double Exposure, the best 5.9 Trad in skaha and maybe the best 5.9 in the park, period. Read More »