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Single Pitch Trad Climbs

Scared Peaches (12a Trad) Lake Louise

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Finally went for the onsight today of Scared Peaches (5.12- trad) today in Lake louise. I had been saving this route for an onsight for years, what an amazing trad line. This is literally the BEST crack i have ever climbed, and i have climbed a LOT of cracks. Totally overhung for 30 meters, sustained, and the gear is not ... Read More »

Astronomy 5.12b Trad, Squamish

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Overhanging radness on the Sheriff’s Badge! My vote for best 5.12- in Squamish. It’s like a baby Cobra Crack Read More »

Astrologger (5.11b) Trad Squamish

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Astrologger aka Squamish’s biggest sandbag Read More »

Shock Collars for Christmas (5.12b) Trad at Top Shelf, Squamish

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Shock Collars is a very appealing, technical crack with flared hand jams, tricky gear and a technical fingerlock .. super fun! I definitely logged some airtime at the top of this route and kept ripping a nut … Read More »

Bush Doctor (5.11b) Trad Squamish

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Overhanging finger crack at White Cliff .. highly recommended! Better than the ‘top 100′ on the cliff .. Read More »

Zombie Roof (5.13a Trad) Squamish

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Zombie Roof is the iconic roof crack in the Smoke Bluffs that everybody stares at – and few people ever climb.  The first true redpoint ascent wasn’t completed until 1999!  Three pieces of gear protects the climb safely – and it is too pumpy to place any more than that! Read More »

Sentry Box 5.12a Trad Squamish

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Sentry Box (5.12a) is a CLASSIC 5.12 trad testpiece located at Murrin Park in Squamish.  The short approach (5 mins) gets you warmed up for the main event, a 30 meter splitter crack with a thin-fingertips crux near the top.  The first half of the climb goes easily at 5.10, followed by a no-hands-rest on a ledge, then a few ... Read More »

Crime of the Century (5.11c) Squamish

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Crime of the Century is my favorite climb in the Smoke Bluffs and it’s a real testpiece for the 5.11 climber!  It is soft in the grade, with a reachy crux down low and a techy crux up high, interpersed with consistent 5.11- climbing.  This makes a great first 5.11+ trad lead.  The secret beta for this wicked finger crack ... Read More »

Wonderland 5.9 Trad Smoke Bluffs

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Wonderland (5.9) is surely the most adventurous and best 5.9 trad in the Smoke Bluffs.  The second can seldom hear the leader, the entire pitch traverses an exposed face, and the wind is usually blowing.  Fun!  Great to do this with an inexperienced second to give them a taste of adventure … Read More »

Dry As a Bone (5.10c)

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I intended this six bolt 5.10c sport climb to be my warmup for Apricot Jam, but then I looked up and saw gear all over the place.  I mean EVERYWHERE.  So I decided to onsight it on gear, which went fine.  I don’t understand why this climb was ever bolted .. it is such an obvious gear route.  Oh well, ... Read More »