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Single Pitch Trad Climbs

Free Soloing Talking Holds

talkingholds

Jesse James soloing Talking Holds, overhanging 5.10 hand crack in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs .. Read More »

Great Kootenay Corner (5.11 Trad)

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The Great Kootenay Corner (5.11) is one of the sweetest trad routes in the West Kootenay, boasting flawless granite, a stellar position in a box canyon, good pro and fantastic views. Good value for the money with over 40 meters of steep corner climbing! Read More »

The Beast (5.10b Trad) @ Slocan City Bluffs

thebeast

Slocan Bluffs ‘The Beast’ (5.10b), possibly so named because of the large beastly deathblock that guards the chains… Read More »

The Big Roof (5.10b) – Slocan Bluffs

bigroof

The Big Roof at Slocan Bluffs, an area classic! I onsighted, but not without some effort, and the final moves felt necky. I call major sandbag at 5.10b! Read More »

Crowbar 5.10d R Trad – East Kootenays – Kootenay Crag

Crowbar (5.10d) might be the best trad line in the West Kootenays. Overhanging, pumpy and committing – if this route was in Squamish every 5.11 climber worth his salt would be lined up to have a go at it. I was psyched to onsight and even more psyched simply to not fall – the gear at the top gets fickle, ... Read More »

Ready to Strike (5.10a Trad) – Diamondback

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Abi working her way over the crux roof on Ready to Strike, a splitter 30 meter corner crack at Diamondback. It’s a great testpiece for the aspriring 5.10 crack climber .. Read More »

Conductress on the #19 (5.10b Offwidth Trad)

conductress

What a monster! This 55 meter offwidth goes all the way to the top of the Fortress and eats fours, fives AND a six. absolutely stellar climb. a real adventure with bush, crumbly choss, a squeeze chimney and a committing roof pull. skaha delivers some amazing trad, i never understand why people come here just to clip bolts! I had ... Read More »

Double Exposure

Abi climbing Double Exposure, the best 5.9 Trad in skaha and maybe the best 5.9 in the park, period. Read More »

Dr. Crow (5.10+) – Stellar Trad Climb

drcrow

Dr. Crow (5.10+ Trad) is an AWESOME climb at Doctor’s Wall in Skaha. There are two bolts on the 30 meter climb with good gear in between. The first bolt is quite high by Skaha standards, hopefully it keeps the sport twinkies off the wall. Read More »

Flying Circus (5.10a) Squamish

flyingcircus

The impeccable splitter crack Flying Circus (10a) in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs. Getting slicker every year … Read More »