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Single Pitch Sport Climbs

Code of Honor (5.12c) Horne Lake

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My vote for best 5.12+ sport route in Horne Lake has to be Code of Honor (5.12c) .. steep, sustained climbing on good holds and big moves, super rad! More onsightable than the rest of the hard routes out there because you can actually see the holds above you .. Read More »

Feed the Monkey (5.13a) Horne Lake

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Wow! Horne Lake is so ill! Best ‘hard’ sport climb I’ve been on this year is Feed The Monkey (5.13a) on the Boss Wall. AMAZING sustained and bouldery climbing in an awesome setting! Read More »

Banana Bypass (5.11c) – Skaha

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Banana Bypass is one of the nicest 5.11+ routes in Skaha, another classic John Fantini route which makes a rising traverse on the Maternal Wall. According to the guidebook, it’s ‘a romp if you have the pipes.’ And if you don’t the pipes? Well, you’re in for some whippers and tears … Read More »

Apricot Jam (5.12b) – Skaha

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Apricot Jam is surely the absolute best 5.12b in Skaha if you like long, enduro routes with a huge variety of climbing; start with a challenging bolted crack, then a no-hands rest, then a much more challenging crack, then another no-hands rest, then a massive roof with big moves to jugs, then an enduro burn up a more-difficult-than-it-seems headwall .. ... Read More »

Scarab (5.12a) – Skaha

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My vote for the BEST 5.12a in Skaha, Scarab is a classic old-school John Fantini route with a little bit of everything; a slab crux down low, a crazy body-position crux up high, an enduro finish, and healthy bolt spacing. Find it on the Isis Wall deep in the Doctors Corridor. As Fantini would say, this is a ‘proper 12a,’ ... Read More »

The Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) – Skaha

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Whoah, this climb is a major sandbag at 5.12a! I tried it a couple times and flailed at the first crux, then took a huge whipper at the second. Really fun route but more like 12b in my opinion. Find it at the Morning Glory Wall in skaha. Read More »

Salvation (5.12b) – Skaha

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Approaching the crux on Salvation, the classic 5.12b jug-haul at the Doctor’s Wall in Skaha. This climb is definitely easier if you’re taller. The sting in the tail ruins many a strong climber’s onsight hopes … Read More »

The Spell (5.12a) – Skaha

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The Spell (5.12a) is one of the best 12- routes in Skaha, very approachable (read: sendable) for the aspiring 5.12 climber. No really hard moves .. just endurance! Read More »

Wings of Steel (5.12d) – Skaha

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Jesse James on Wings of Steel (5.12d). The Mythos (two sizes two large) performing admirably on this super rad testpiece at Great White Wall. This is the only shoe I can wear. Edging is strictly VERBOTEN! Read More »