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Single Pitch Sport Climbs

Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12) – Oregon Jack

jedi2

Made a short expedition to Oregon Jack Park outside Cache creek. This is a place with huge limestone walls and tons of potential; if this canyon were located in France, there would be hundreds of routes. As it is, I saw barely a dozen. We ventured off the beaten path (literally, it’s a schwack..) to find Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12), ... Read More »

Prestidigitator (5.12c) – Morning Glory Wall, Skaha

prestidigitator

Prestidigitator is a classic 5.12c at Morning Glory but much harder since a hold broke off, more like 5.12d or even 5.13a. I found it very hard and had trouble pulling the crux move, definitely harder than many 5.13s I have climbed! Read More »

Dreams Be Dreams (5.12b) – Maternal Wall, Skaha

dreamsbedreams

Two major cruxes define this route; one technical, the other burly. Possibility of big but safe airtime at the second crux! This is definitely a must-do classic in Skaha, with steep overhanging pumpy climbing the entire way. A sandbag at 5.12b … Read More »

Lost in Paradise (5.11d) Skaha

lostinparadise

Lost in Paradise (5.11d) is a stellar juggy route at Werbworld and one of the best of its grade at Skaha. Big moves to big holds and big pump! Tried it once a couple years ago and whipped off, but got it first go this year. FUN Read More »

Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) – Skaha

hackerandgasman

The Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) at Morning Glory wall in Skaha is an under-rated 5.12a, given 1 star in the book but this route is easily 2 or 3 stars. An easy start leads to cruxy moves over a bulge on decent crimps, followed by easy 5.10 climbing to a final 5.11+ crux that guards the chains. Really fun! ... Read More »

Fuck Megos (5.12b) – First Ascent

fm1

Climbed a first Ascent on Diamondback today in SKAHA. Fuck Megos (5.12b) bolted and FA to Jesse James. It’s an extension to the very popular route On Yer Bike and goes all the way to the top of the wall. The crux is safe but the bolt is below your feet , miss the crux and you whip. The upper ... Read More »

Lake Lakit Is Sweet!

lakelakit3

Fun climbing bomber white quartzite at Lake Lakit! This is mostly a sport venue with steep overhanging routes, but some of the lines definitely go on gear. I climbed one five star line skipping all the bolts at 5.10+R. Every route we climbed at this crag was stellar..two minute approach and great free camping right at the crag. This is ... Read More »

Lake Lakit – Air Mail (5.12c)

airmail

Last day at Lake Lakit and i just missed the onsight of one of the sweetest routes in the east Kootenays, Air Mail (5.12+). Got it third go. Abigail sent her 10d project – time to move on to some different crags! Read More »

Trainspotting (5.11d) Kootenay Crag

trainspotting

Trainspotting (5.11d) is one of the best sport climbs in the West Kootenays with amazing rock and technical, sustained, pumpy climbing. i was psyched to onsight this classic. It’s all about the kneebar no-hands rest! Read More »

Kootenay Crag 5.13+ Project

koots1

Last day at Kootenay Crag, started working an unsent open 5.13 project to the right of Crowbar. Anyone else working this route? The v8/v9 boulder move halfway up is truly savage. Route feels like 13c or harder… Read More »