BD Ultralights Review – THEY SUCK!


BD ultralights = absolute garbage. I brought a light rack for the beckey chouinard last year and halfway up the route two of my BD ultralights broke. I barely had gear for anchors. This year I will be receiving a full rack of Wold Country cams for the alpine. BD needs to get their shit sorted! I dont expect cams ... Read More »

Red Bull Climbers Suck


Some pro climbers are willing to do just about anything to fund their lifestyles; different dogs, same old bone. Rock climbers who accept sponsorships from disreputable companies like Red Bull embarass themselves and the sport they represent. Red Bull is one of the most notable sponsors of adventure sports and also the most abominable. Numerous studies have shown the harmful ... Read More »

Accident In Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col


I’ve seen dozens of accidents over the years, many of them in the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. The worst was when a gym climber, green to the mountains and oblivious to the dangers of steep snow, sans crampons or ice axe, took one step off the top of the col and immediately lost her footing, her boot shooting out from under her ... Read More »

Heard Enough About Them Mutants!


I recently had the wonderful opportunity to NOT attend a speaking event by Alex Megos, and just the thought of this genetic mutant sauntering up 5.15 has got me in a vitriolic kind of mood. I was drawn to climbing for the adventure of it, the splendor of the mountains, the feral capriciousness of nature. It is a shame to ... Read More »

Squamish Dirtbags Rule

My buddy Travis C cooking dirtbag-style inside the grocery store. Classic!

There’s an awesome HARDCORE dirtbag crew in squamish this fall. i mean these are the live-on-forest-road-in-pouring-rain-under-leaky-tarps-rummage-nesters-dumpster-for-old-pizza-shower-at-homeleas-shelter-go-for-night-session-bouldering-in-zero-degrees kind of dirtbags. Not those SOFTY dirtbags who drive south in october in a mercedes sprinter bound for yosemite to climb where its actually WARM Read More »

Living Life One Coin Flip At A Time


Ever since my girlfriend and i split up a few months ago ive been suffering from an overabundance of freedom and my natural indecisiveness has resulted in extreme choice fatigue. i’ve discovered that a simple coin is man’s best friend. whenever im confused about a choice, which is always, i flip a loonie. Heads i roadtrip all winter through the ... Read More »

On Cleansing the Spirit …


i find trad climbing cathartic and cleansing. the harder and scarier the trad route, the more my spirit is cleansed. sometimes it is good to see how scared you can get in a day Read More »

Are You CRAZY?


I’m looking for people who are completely crazy … People who are mad to live, mad to love, mad to climb, mad to be free! In this upside-down world we live in, it is the ‘sane’ people we need to be worried about. The only people for me are the crazy ones, the ones who not only live and think ... Read More »

A Million And One Ways Not to Die


Climbing is dangerous. It says so on the ‘biners. The question is: how can we make it a little less dangerous? Throughout life, we mostly learn from our mistakes. When I was a young punk growing up in Brooklyn, I teased a younger kid about being effeminate. He clocked me square in the jaw (hey, Brooklyn was rough back then!) ... Read More »

Man Vs. Grizzly Bear (And Lydia Marmont)


Grizzly Bear Encounter: Rogers Pass, British Columbia (July 9th, 2015) Having just climbed the Southeast Ridge of Mt Uto, my partner and I were descending lazily in the extreme heat of the afternoon when an off-duty ‘visitor safety’ specialist named Lydia blew past us. Despite a grizzly bear advisory on the trail, she left her climbing partners in the dust ... Read More »