Multipitch Sport Climbs

One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (5.10c) 5 Pitches


Casual slab climbing on the Apron. We climbed the classic One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (5.10+) which offers excellent sustained 5.10 slab work. Less runout than White Lightning but still a few ‘heads up’ moves. Makes a good early season head warmup. Read More »

Blue Jeans (5.13c) – Incredible Hard Yamnuska Multipitch Climb!


Hopped on the iconic Blue Jeans (5.13b/c) today on yam. Leading the crux pitch was super rad, but Mythos might not be thre optimal shoe for that style of climbing. This was my first ever time on Yam, so fun! The cruxes weren’t crazy hard, bouldery V6/V7 but hard to link up. Definitely keen to get back on this and ... Read More »

The Early Worm (AWESOME Rockies 5.11 Sport Multipitch)


Jumped on Dave Thomsen’s ‘Early Worm’ (5.11a 7 pitches) on Mt Bourgeau, but we were not exactly early worms, having started climbing at 5pm. This is a most excellent route with good rock, great exposure and fun slab moves. The rock is SHARP and a fall would be ill-advised unless you enjoy swimming in razorblades. Long pants? Mandatory. Read More »

Sisyphys Summits (5.11a) Ha Ling


Sisyphus Summits on Ha Ling was a trip! Supposedly the longest sport climb north of Mexico, this 23 pitch 5.10d/11a felt a lot easier than the grade. I expected the climb to take under four hours so we started at 1:30pm, but due to some bizarre rope issues and the fact that it was Abi’s first time climbing limestone (and ... Read More »

Silent Auction (5.12c)


One of my goals for the summer is to climb the 15 hard rockies classic multipitch sport climbs featured in Gripped Magazine. Me and my buddy Tom Anderson had planned to get on the ultra classic Blue Jeans (13b) today on Yam, but the sun and late start discouraged us. Instead we hopped on Silent Auction (5.12c), a new route ... Read More »

Dodging Wives (5.11c) Saddleback Lake Louise


Ticked off another one of Gripped Magazine’s classic 15 hard rockies multipitch climbs with a clean onsight ascent of Dodging Wives (5.11c) on Saddleback. This is definitely one of the best short multipitch sport routes in the Rockies with 4 pitches of perfect rock and consistently perplexing climbing. My buddy led the first pitch in approach shoes, i took the ... Read More »

Marriage Box (5.12a) Grotto Canyon


Climbed the amazing four pitch Marriage Box (5.12a) on Tall Storey Wall in Echo Canyon – what a spectacular, sustained climb with four 40 meter epic pitches on perfect overhanging limestone! Thanks to Greg Tos for putting up this gem, one of the best in the Rockies. I onsighted my two 11d leads in cool shade, Tom took the two ... Read More »

Arch Enemy (5.11d) Stanley Headwall


Climbed Arch Enemy (7 pitch 5.11d) today on the Stanley Headwall. Absolutely spectacular route, one of the best Rockies multipitches i’ve climbed to date. In my opinion, better than Silent Auction, Marriage Box or Tall Storey, but not as good as Dreams of Verdun. Climbing next to the waterfall was rad! The crux pitch felt very hard for the grade, ... Read More »

Tall Storey (5.11c)


Wow! Tall Storey has to be one of my favorite multipitch sport climbs in the Rockies, dwarfed only by Dreams of Verdon (5.12b, Ghost River Wilderness).  Tall Storey is not terribly sustained, with one heinous move about three meters off the deck on pitch 1, and a fairly sustained pitch 2, with the rest of the pitches being quite cruiser.  ... Read More »

Grand Sentinel Cardiac Arete (5.10d)


The hike alone is worth it! Hiking through the Valley of the Ten Peaks reminded me of my very brief trek through the Himalaya years ago. The word ‘stunning’ does not do it justice. And the climb is, of course, ABSURDLY GOOD. My only beef with this climb is that it’s only four pitches! We liked it so much we ... Read More »