Multipitch Rock Climbs

Screams from the Balcony (5.11b)


Screams from the Balcony (5.11b Mixed Sport/Trad) has got to be one of the best routes in the Lake Louise area. The last pitch of this climb is simply the most stunning pitch of rock climbing I have ever done, period. And I’ve climbed a lot of rock! The final crux pitch pulls five intimidating stepped roofs with extreme exposure ... Read More »

Love At First Fright (5.11b)


Awesome day at Lake Louise in August on the spectacular Love at First Fright (5.11b mixed gear and bolts, 3 pitches) on Goblin Wall. Great place to avoid the crowds at the back-of-the-lake. Definitely one of my favorite multipitch routes in Lake Louise!  Lots of bolts, but bring a light rack, and expect some fun runouts.  Luckily, there is nothing ... Read More »

White Feather (5.11d) Squamish


The White Feather (5.11d) might be a little over-rated as a top 100 climb. All the pitches are relatively good but not amazing, while the real standout is the white feather pitch itself. I recommend you lower your belayer a good 3 meters below the belay so that the leader does not fall on his belayer’s head. The gear is ... Read More »

Sunset Strip Squamish Rock Climb


THANKS TO COLIN MOORHEAD FOR PUTTING UP THIS AMAZING ROUTE!!!! Sunset Strip is the classic new line up the western dihedrals of the Chief. With sustained crack climbing and clean rock, this became an instant classic a few years ago when Colin Moorhead put it up. It’s an excellent warmup for the Grand Wall and a good workout for any ... Read More »

Grand Wall 5.11a Squamish

GrandWall traverse pitch

Extreme gear beta and sandbagging tips for the aspiring Grand Wall leader … Rope: 60 meter (committing, you can’t rappel with one rope. You can rappel from anywhere with two ropes, though it might be tricky from the top of the flats. Rack: Depends on skill, but I normally use: 2 #1 BD Camalot 1 #2 BD Camalot 1 #3 ... Read More »

Cerberus (5.11d)


Cerberus is a RIDICULOUSLY AWESOME technical face climb on the Chief. Now you can link directly into Cerberus via Marc LeClerc’s CATHARSIS CRACK, requiring only a small rack for the entire adventure. Catharsis to Cerberus is sustained, technical, and wickedly fun. There are some runouts (especially on Catharsis ..) but all the falls are super safe. The first pitch of ... Read More »

Catharsis Crack (5.10d)


Catharsis Crack .. really was a ‘catharsis’ for me. Took a MASSIVE pendulum whipper on a #2 camalot when I went too high at the third-to-last bolt. Trying to clip the bolt at my feet when Mythos blew and down I went, sideways. Fun! This is a FANTASTIC CLIMB .. thanks to Marc-Andre LeClerc for putting this up, making Cerberus ... Read More »

Southwest Face of the Prow, Slow Pitch (5.10c) – Skaha


The Southwest Face of the Prow on Skaha. Man, what an epic always. It’s called ‘Slow Pitch’ because the rope drag slows you down, or in my case, stops me about 2 meters from the anchor. Use double-link slings on the initial rope or prepare to cry. I also forgot half my rack at the base of this climb, which ... Read More »

Freeway (5.11d) – Squamish


Considered by many to be the best of Squamish’s hard multipitch trad lines, Freeway is an exhilarating excursion up slabby dihedrals, a massive roof, and a spectacular traverse with absurd exposure. Not my favorite hard multipitch in Squamish, but certainly an adventure. Oh, and it’s pretty spicy too! Read More »

A Guide to Sanbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers on Squamish’s Grand Wall (5.11a)


by JESSE JAMES …. One of the most legendary multipitch excursions in all of Canada, the Grand Wall cuts a brilliant line up the cleanest sweep of granite in Squamish, an imposing face of steep corners and flakes. I run up The Grand at least once a month to re-assure myself of my manhood. The Grand Wall is a fantastic ... Read More »