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Multipitch Rock Climbs

Hairpin (5.11a slab variation)

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Climbed Hairpin today for the first time in a long time, a nice little route for an evening ascent. we opted for the 11a slab variation which is money! Abby took her first slab whipper on the 10a topout pitch…good shit Read More »

Nanook 5.11d Trad Squamish

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Climbed NANOOK (5 pitches 5.11d) this year, amazing new route on the north walls. Seems like we made the third ascent of the route after Drew Marshall and Duncan O’Regan climbed it a few days before us. Major thanks to Danny Guestrin and Jon Rigg for their herculean effort in cleaning, developing and FA’ING this super rad line. Nanook is ... Read More »

Polaris (5.12a) Trad Squamish

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Climbed Polaris (10 pitches, 12a) and it was so rad! We gambled on forecast of 40% showers, brought one 60m rope and climbed it fast and light, my favorite style. No backpack, half a liter of water for myself, no food, no screwing around. Started at 1230pm and finished at 7pm. Absolutely fantastic climbing, every pitch good! A must-do classic! ... Read More »

Grub Street (5.11a Trad) – Squamish Rock Climb

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Grub Street is a beautiful climb on the Malamute that DRIES FAST and can usually be climbed year-round.  The first pitch starts on Old Style, which is kind of a sandbagged 5.9 (Peter Croft, what do you expect?!).  For the next pitch, you can climb Cider Crack at 5.10a directly up, or traverse the ledge rightward to climb Grub Street, ... Read More »

The Great Game (5.10d Trad) – Squamish

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The Great Game (5.10d) is my vote for best 5.10+ short multipitch in Squamish. I have climbed it literally dozens of times.  The first pitch is almost certainly best-of-its-grade anywhere in Canada, a 60 meter 5.10d sustained crack that starts with pumpy laybacking and jamming, followed by some delicate moves up an ambiguous corner, followed by a crux finger crack ... Read More »

Road to Amritsar (5.11c) – New Delhi Cliff – Squamish

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FFA and Route Development: Harry Young (2015) Topo: Copyright Harry Young A BIG thanks to Harry Young for developing this route and this entire crag. The amount of work that went into this route is HEROIC.  I can’t even imagine how he did it.  The route is super clean with no choss or loose blocks anywhere, nor any moss.  New ... Read More »

Krimo Gold (5.11a)

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Krimo Gold is a stellar variation to the five-star Liquid Gold on the Bulletheads. The first three pitches are fantastic and sustained at 10+, while the final 70 meter 11a crux pitch is surely one of the best in its grade in Squamish.  Bring a triple rack from .3 to #3 and one #4.  The final pitch really is a ... Read More »

Screams from the Balcony (5.11b)

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Screams from the Balcony (5.11b Mixed Sport/Trad) has got to be one of the best routes in the Lake Louise area. The last pitch of this climb is simply the most stunning pitch of rock climbing I have ever done, period. And I’ve climbed a lot of rock! The final crux pitch pulls five intimidating stepped roofs with extreme exposure ... Read More »

Love At First Fright (5.11b)

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Awesome day at Lake Louise in August on the spectacular Love at First Fright (5.11b mixed gear and bolts, 3 pitches) on Goblin Wall. Great place to avoid the crowds at the back-of-the-lake. Definitely one of my favorite multipitch routes in Lake Louise!  Lots of bolts, but bring a light rack, and expect some fun runouts.  Luckily, there is nothing ... Read More »

White Feather (5.11d) Squamish

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The White Feather (5.11d) might be a little over-rated as a top 100 climb. All the pitches are relatively good but not amazing, while the real standout is the white feather pitch itself. I recommend you lower your belayer a good 3 meters below the belay so that the leader does not fall on his belayer’s head. The gear is ... Read More »