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Lake Louise

Dodging Wives (5.11c) Saddleback Lake Louise

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Ticked off another one of Gripped Magazine’s classic 15 hard rockies multipitch climbs with a clean onsight ascent of Dodging Wives (5.11c) on Saddleback. This is definitely one of the best short multipitch sport routes in the Rockies with 4 pitches of perfect rock and consistently perplexing climbing. My buddy led the first pitch in approach shoes, i took the ... Read More »

Arch Enemy (5.11d) Stanley Headwall

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Climbed Arch Enemy (7 pitch 5.11d) today on the Stanley Headwall. Absolutely spectacular route, one of the best Rockies multipitches i’ve climbed to date. In my opinion, better than Silent Auction, Marriage Box or Tall Storey, but not as good as Dreams of Verdun. Climbing next to the waterfall was rad! The crux pitch felt very hard for the grade, ... Read More »

Scared Peaches (12a Trad) Lake Louise

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Finally went for the onsight today of Scared Peaches (5.12- trad) today in Lake louise. I had been saving this route for an onsight for years, what an amazing trad line. This is literally the BEST crack i have ever climbed, and i have climbed a LOT of cracks. Totally overhung for 30 meters, sustained, and the gear is not ... Read More »

Screams from the Balcony (5.11b)

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Screams from the Balcony (5.11b Mixed Sport/Trad) has got to be one of the best routes in the Lake Louise area. The last pitch of this climb is simply the most stunning pitch of rock climbing I have ever done, period. And I’ve climbed a lot of rock! The final crux pitch pulls five intimidating stepped roofs with extreme exposure ... Read More »

Love At First Fright (5.11b)

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Awesome day at Lake Louise in August on the spectacular Love at First Fright (5.11b mixed gear and bolts, 3 pitches) on Goblin Wall. Great place to avoid the crowds at the back-of-the-lake. Definitely one of my favorite multipitch routes in Lake Louise!  Lots of bolts, but bring a light rack, and expect some fun runouts.  Luckily, there is nothing ... Read More »

Violet Hour (5.10b) Lake Louise

Violet Hour

Violet Hour (5.10b Trad) at Lake Louise is a thuggy, totally overhanging roof jug haul – how can you not love this climb?! Amazing climbing, steep jugs and bomber gear. DO IT!! Read More »

Grand Sentinel Cardiac Arete (5.10d)

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The hike alone is worth it! Hiking through the Valley of the Ten Peaks reminded me of my very brief trek through the Himalaya years ago. The word ‘stunning’ does not do it justice. And the climb is, of course, ABSURDLY GOOD. My only beef with this climb is that it’s only four pitches! We liked it so much we ... Read More »