East Kootenays

Lake Lakit Is Sweet!


Fun climbing bomber white quartzite at Lake Lakit! This is mostly a sport venue with steep overhanging routes, but some of the lines definitely go on gear. I climbed one five star line skipping all the bolts at 5.10+R. Every route we climbed at this crag was stellar..two minute approach and great free camping right at the crag. This is ... Read More »

Great Kootenay Corner (5.11 Trad)


The Great Kootenay Corner (5.11) is one of the sweetest trad routes in the West Kootenay, boasting flawless granite, a stellar position in a box canyon, good pro and fantastic views. Good value for the money with over 40 meters of steep corner climbing! Read More »

The Beast (5.10b Trad) @ Slocan City Bluffs


Slocan Bluffs ‘The Beast’ (5.10b), possibly so named because of the large beastly deathblock that guards the chains… Read More »

The Big Roof (5.10b) – Slocan Bluffs


The Big Roof at Slocan Bluffs, an area classic! I onsighted, but not without some effort, and the final moves felt necky. I call major sandbag at 5.10b! Read More »

Trainspotting (5.11d) Kootenay Crag


Trainspotting (5.11d) is one of the best sport climbs in the West Kootenays with amazing rock and technical, sustained, pumpy climbing. i was psyched to onsight this classic. It’s all about the kneebar no-hands rest! Read More »

Crowbar 5.10d R Trad – East Kootenays – Kootenay Crag

Crowbar (5.10d) might be the best trad line in the West Kootenays. Overhanging, pumpy and committing – if this route was in Squamish every 5.11 climber worth his salt would be lined up to have a go at it. I was psyched to onsight and even more psyched simply to not fall – the gear at the top gets fickle, ... Read More »

Kootenay Crag 5.13+ Project


Last day at Kootenay Crag, started working an unsent open 5.13 project to the right of Crowbar. Anyone else working this route? The v8/v9 boulder move halfway up is truly savage. Route feels like 13c or harder… Read More »

Sailor Jerry (5.10d) Gimli Little South Face – Valhallas


Exploring a new route in the Valhallas called Sailor Jerry (5.10d, put up by Cam Shute). Here I am runout, off-route, and trying to figure out how not to die… Sailor Jerry Gimli Read More »

The Gift (5.11c) Wolf’s Ears – Valhallas


Gave up on Sailor Jerry and went to climb The Gift (5.11c) on the Wolf’s Ears .. where I was even more runout, a little less off-route, and still trying to figure out how not to die. If the first pitch doesn’t scare you enough, try pitch #2 … Read More »

Gimli South Ridge


WOOHOO! What a SICK climb! The first pitch was originally graded 5.7 (!!), which turns out to be a colossal sandbag. More like 5.10a/b. Beautiful rock and perfect climbing. After the first pitch, it’s almost a scramble. Easy walk-off descent. Two hour approach to the climb on foot from the car, or 15 minutes from the camping area. Do it ... Read More »