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Canadian Rockies

Blue Jeans (5.13c) – Incredible Hard Yamnuska Multipitch Climb!

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Hopped on the iconic Blue Jeans (5.13b/c) today on yam. Leading the crux pitch was super rad, but Mythos might not be thre optimal shoe for that style of climbing. This was my first ever time on Yam, so fun! The cruxes weren’t crazy hard, bouldery V6/V7 but hard to link up. Definitely keen to get back on this and ... Read More »

The Early Worm (AWESOME Rockies 5.11 Sport Multipitch)

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Jumped on Dave Thomsen’s ‘Early Worm’ (5.11a 7 pitches) on Mt Bourgeau, but we were not exactly early worms, having started climbing at 5pm. This is a most excellent route with good rock, great exposure and fun slab moves. The rock is SHARP and a fall would be ill-advised unless you enjoy swimming in razorblades. Long pants? Mandatory. Read More »

Sisyphys Summits (5.11a) Ha Ling

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Sisyphus Summits on Ha Ling was a trip! Supposedly the longest sport climb north of Mexico, this 23 pitch 5.10d/11a felt a lot easier than the grade. I expected the climb to take under four hours so we started at 1:30pm, but due to some bizarre rope issues and the fact that it was Abi’s first time climbing limestone (and ... Read More »

Silent Auction (5.12c)

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One of my goals for the summer is to climb the 15 hard rockies classic multipitch sport climbs featured in Gripped Magazine. Me and my buddy Tom Anderson had planned to get on the ultra classic Blue Jeans (13b) today on Yam, but the sun and late start discouraged us. Instead we hopped on Silent Auction (5.12c), a new route ... Read More »

Marriage Box (5.12a) Grotto Canyon

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Climbed the amazing four pitch Marriage Box (5.12a) on Tall Storey Wall in Echo Canyon – what a spectacular, sustained climb with four 40 meter epic pitches on perfect overhanging limestone! Thanks to Greg Tos for putting up this gem, one of the best in the Rockies. I onsighted my two 11d leads in cool shade, Tom took the two ... Read More »

Tall Storey (5.11c)

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Wow! Tall Storey has to be one of my favorite multipitch sport climbs in the Rockies, dwarfed only by Dreams of Verdon (5.12b, Ghost River Wilderness).  Tall Storey is not terribly sustained, with one heinous move about three meters off the deck on pitch 1, and a fairly sustained pitch 2, with the rest of the pitches being quite cruiser.  ... Read More »