West Ridge of Pigeon Spire – Bugaboos Classic


After getting weathered off the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard the day before our successful ascent, we slogged dejectedly back to camp in search of a consolation prize; the West Ridge of Pigeon, a classic 5.4 ridge traverse that none of us had ever climbed. We started soloing at 6pm and were up and down the mountain in under an hour. ... Read More »

Accident In Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col


I’ve seen dozens of accidents over the years, many of them in the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. The worst was when a gym climber, green to the mountains and oblivious to the dangers of steep snow, sans crampons or ice axe, took one step off the top of the col and immediately lost her footing, her boot shooting out from under her ... Read More »

McTech Arete


After the injured climber was successfully airlifted out of the col, we had no time left for Sunshine Crack (it was already 6pm) so we booked it over to McTech Arete, where I made use of the wide gear to climb the direct version of the route, a 45m sustained 5.10 offwidth crack, 4 to 5 inches wide the entire ... Read More »

Beckey-Chouinard South Howser Tower (5.10+) – Bugaboos


Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower One of the best alpine rock climbs in Canada – or anywhere on Earth! Wow. We climbed it as a three-man and trailed a rope for the third (my girlfriend) to ushba up. Fun times. Took us around 17hrs. Trip report coming one day, maybe. GO CLIMB THIS! Approach: Most parties approach from East Creek ... Read More »

Bugaboo Spire – Northeast Ridge


We had a bit of an epic on this climb, having to pass five parties (including a group of Texans who had NEVER trad climbed before and told us to ‘get comfortable’ in their soft Texas drawl). Needless to say, we pissed some folks off on this route, but didn’t fancy spending a night on the summit. Took us 7 ... Read More »