Best Climbs

Grand Wall 5.11a Squamish

GrandWall traverse pitch

Extreme gear beta and sandbagging tips for the aspiring Grand Wall leader … Rope: 60 meter (committing, you can’t rappel with one rope. You can rappel from anywhere with two ropes, though it might be tricky from the top of the flats. Rack: Depends on skill, but I normally use: 2 #1 BD Camalot 1 #2 BD Camalot 1 #3 ... Read More »

Feed the Monkey (5.13a) Horne Lake


Wow! Horne Lake is so ill! Best ‘hard’ sport climb I’ve been on this year is Feed The Monkey (5.13a) on the Boss Wall. AMAZING sustained and bouldery climbing in an awesome setting! Read More »

Headbangers in Leather (5.11d) – Squamish


My vote for the best 11d in Squamish! Continuously thuggy, burly overhanging climbing with good protection and not-so-good rests. Fantastic power-endurance burn! An elusive hand-jam rest mid-height is the redpoint beta. Read More »

Apricot Jam (5.12b) – Skaha


Apricot Jam is surely the absolute best 5.12b in Skaha if you like long, enduro routes with a huge variety of climbing; start with a challenging bolted crack, then a no-hands rest, then a much more challenging crack, then another no-hands rest, then a massive roof with big moves to jugs, then an enduro burn up a more-difficult-than-it-seems headwall .. ... Read More »

Freeway (5.11d) – Squamish


Considered by many to be the best of Squamish’s hard multipitch trad lines, Freeway is an exhilarating excursion up slabby dihedrals, a massive roof, and a spectacular traverse with absurd exposure. Not my favorite hard multipitch in Squamish, but certainly an adventure. Oh, and it’s pretty spicy too! Read More »

Double Exposure (5.9) – Skaha


Double Exposure is one of the best of Skaha’s moderate/easy trad lines. At 5.9 (!), it is a wolf in sheep’s clothing! Spectacular rock and an awesome position make this climb a must-do. The crux is spicy if 5.9 is your max! Bring gear to #3 and an rp nicely protects the crux (but don’t fall ..). Enjoy! Read More »

Dreams of Verdon (5.12a) – Ghost River Wilderness


Holy shit!! Best multipitch sport climb EVER!! Incredible climbing up immaculate gently overhanging limestone. All bolts. The book says ‘old school’ bolting but I didn’t find it scary – maybe if you ONLY climb sport you might get a little spooked, but the falls are totally safe. No gear required at all. The rappels were terrifying; heavy wind, hard to ... Read More »

Viennese Clark Traverse – Chehalis


Crazy that nobody goes out to the Chehalis anymore. The access is great! And WOW, what a campsite! We were SO STOKED on this trip, damn. My girlfriend got stung by dozens of bees (they were nesting all over the trail). And I’m deathly allergic but don’t carry an epi-pen. So hiking the trail (and it’s LONG) was way, way ... Read More »

Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a) – Skaha


Outstanding exposure on Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a), a superb trad line at Great White Wall in Skaha. A thin crack with bomber rock and gear provides the crux in the first ten meters, followed by scrambly climbing to the big roofs, which go at a much easier grade than you might expect. Bring gear to #4 including a blue and ... Read More »

Supercharger (5.10c) – Skaha


Supercharger (5.10c) is an awesome trad line at Morning Glory. The start is unprotected V1+ (not V3 as the book claims!) and there is no bomber gear until the roof, but the climbing is super easy. Roof takes bomber pro up to #3. Crux is just after the roof, but short-lived. Read More »