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Best Climbs

Headbangers in Leather (5.11d) – Squamish

Headbangers

My vote for the best 11d in Squamish! Continuously thuggy, burly overhanging climbing with good protection and not-so-good rests. Fantastic power-endurance burn! An elusive hand-jam rest mid-height is the redpoint beta. Read More »

Apricot Jam (5.12b) – Skaha

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Apricot Jam is surely the absolute best 5.12b in Skaha if you like long, enduro routes with a huge variety of climbing; start with a challenging bolted crack, then a no-hands rest, then a much more challenging crack, then another no-hands rest, then a massive roof with big moves to jugs, then an enduro burn up a more-difficult-than-it-seems headwall .. ... Read More »

Freeway (5.11d) – Squamish

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Considered by many to be the best of Squamish’s hard multipitch trad lines, Freeway is an exhilarating excursion up slabby dihedrals, a massive roof, and a spectacular traverse with absurd exposure. Not my favorite hard multipitch in Squamish, but certainly an adventure. Oh, and it’s pretty spicy too! Read More »

Double Exposure (5.9) – Skaha

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Double Exposure is one of the best of Skaha’s moderate/easy trad lines. At 5.9 (!), it is a wolf in sheep’s clothing! Spectacular rock and an awesome position make this climb a must-do. The crux is spicy if 5.9 is your max! Bring gear to #3 and an rp nicely protects the crux (but don’t fall ..). Enjoy! Read More »

Dreams of Verdon (5.12a) – Ghost River Wilderness

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Holy shit!! Best multipitch sport climb EVER!! Incredible climbing up immaculate gently overhanging limestone. All bolts. The book says ‘old school’ bolting but I didn’t find it scary – maybe if you ONLY climb sport you might get a little spooked, but the falls are totally safe. No gear required at all. The rappels were terrifying; heavy wind, hard to ... Read More »

Viennese Clark Traverse – Chehalis

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Crazy that nobody goes out to the Chehalis anymore. The access is great! And WOW, what a campsite! We were SO STOKED on this trip, damn. My girlfriend got stung by dozens of bees (they were nesting all over the trail). And I’m deathly allergic but don’t carry an epi-pen. So hiking the trail (and it’s LONG) was way, way ... Read More »

Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a) – Skaha

eerilyhangingout

Outstanding exposure on Eerily Hanging Out (5.11a), a superb trad line at Great White Wall in Skaha. A thin crack with bomber rock and gear provides the crux in the first ten meters, followed by scrambly climbing to the big roofs, which go at a much easier grade than you might expect. Bring gear to #4 including a blue and ... Read More »

Supercharger (5.10c) – Skaha

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Supercharger (5.10c) is an awesome trad line at Morning Glory. The start is unprotected V1+ (not V3 as the book claims!) and there is no bomber gear until the roof, but the climbing is super easy. Roof takes bomber pro up to #3. Crux is just after the roof, but short-lived. Read More »

Apricot Headjam (5.11c) – Skaha

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Apricot Headjam (5.11c?) – best mixed climb at Skaha! Skip the rotten rock on the first half of Max Headroom and climb the bolted Apricot Jam crack (or place gear on it), then move left into Max Headroom. The trad crux is only 5.10c and gear is bomber. Light single rack to #3 should suffice. 70 meter rope gets you ... Read More »