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Best Climbs

Wings of Desire (5.11c) Skaha

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Surely one of the best sport routes in Western Canada … Read More »

Zombie Roof (5.13a Trad) Squamish

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Zombie Roof is the iconic roof crack in the Smoke Bluffs that everybody stares at – and few people ever climb.  The first true redpoint ascent wasn’t completed until 1999!  Three pieces of gear protects the climb safely – and it is too pumpy to place any more than that! Read More »

Sentry Box 5.12a Trad Squamish

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Sentry Box (5.12a) is a CLASSIC 5.12 trad testpiece located at Murrin Park in Squamish.  The short approach (5 mins) gets you warmed up for the main event, a 30 meter splitter crack with a thin-fingertips crux near the top.  The first half of the climb goes easily at 5.10, followed by a no-hands-rest on a ledge, then a few ... Read More »

Tall Storey (5.11c)

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Wow! Tall Storey has to be one of my favorite multipitch sport climbs in the Rockies, dwarfed only by Dreams of Verdon (5.12b, Ghost River Wilderness).  Tall Storey is not terribly sustained, with one heinous move about three meters off the deck on pitch 1, and a fairly sustained pitch 2, with the rest of the pitches being quite cruiser.  ... Read More »

Screams from the Balcony (5.11b)

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Screams from the Balcony (5.11b Mixed Sport/Trad) has got to be one of the best routes in the Lake Louise area. The last pitch of this climb is simply the most stunning pitch of rock climbing I have ever done, period. And I’ve climbed a lot of rock! The final crux pitch pulls five intimidating stepped roofs with extreme exposure ... Read More »

Kashmir (5.11c) – Kashmir Wall Squamish

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Found ourselves by accident on the Kashmir Wall today climbing a random bolted route. We had no idea the grade and just started up. I was psyched to get the onsight. Turns out this was Kashmir (5.11c), fully bolted and 30 meters. It was a FANTASTIC climb, highly recommended, perfect rock. Read More »

Sunset Strip Squamish Rock Climb

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THANKS TO COLIN MOORHEAD FOR PUTTING UP THIS AMAZING ROUTE!!!! Sunset Strip is the classic new line up the western dihedrals of the Chief. With sustained crack climbing and clean rock, this became an instant classic a few years ago when Colin Moorhead put it up. It’s an excellent warmup for the Grand Wall and a good workout for any ... Read More »

Grand Wall 5.11a Squamish

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Extreme gear beta and sandbagging tips for the aspiring Grand Wall leader … Rope: 60 meter (committing, you can’t rappel with one rope. You can rappel from anywhere with two ropes, though it might be tricky from the top of the flats. Rack: Depends on skill, but I normally use: 2 #1 BD Camalot 1 #2 BD Camalot 1 #3 ... Read More »

Feed the Monkey (5.13a) Horne Lake

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Wow! Horne Lake is so ill! Best ‘hard’ sport climb I’ve been on this year is Feed The Monkey (5.13a) on the Boss Wall. AMAZING sustained and bouldery climbing in an awesome setting! Read More »

Headbangers in Leather (5.11d) – Squamish

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My vote for the best 11d in Squamish! Continuously thuggy, burly overhanging climbing with good protection and not-so-good rests. Fantastic power-endurance burn! An elusive hand-jam rest mid-height is the redpoint beta. Read More »