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Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12) – Oregon Jack

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Made a short expedition to Oregon Jack Park outside Cache creek. This is a place with huge limestone walls and tons of potential; if this canyon were located in France, there would be hundreds of routes. As it is, I saw barely a dozen. We ventured off the beaten path (literally, it’s a schwack..) to find Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12), ... Read More »

Fuck Megos (5.12b) – First Ascent

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Climbed a first Ascent on Diamondback today in SKAHA. Fuck Megos (5.12b) bolted and FA to Jesse James. It’s an extension to the very popular route On Yer Bike and goes all the way to the top of the wall. The crux is safe but the bolt is below your feet , miss the crux and you whip. The upper ... Read More »

Great Kootenay Corner (5.11 Trad)

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The Great Kootenay Corner (5.11) is one of the sweetest trad routes in the West Kootenay, boasting flawless granite, a stellar position in a box canyon, good pro and fantastic views. Good value for the money with over 40 meters of steep corner climbing! Read More »

West Ridge of Pigeon Spire – Bugaboos Classic

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After getting weathered off the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard the day before our successful ascent, we slogged dejectedly back to camp in search of a consolation prize; the West Ridge of Pigeon, a classic 5.4 ridge traverse that none of us had ever climbed. We started soloing at 6pm and were up and down the mountain in under an hour. ... Read More »

Marriage Box (5.12a) Grotto Canyon

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Climbed the amazing four pitch Marriage Box (5.12a) on Tall Storey Wall in Echo Canyon – what a spectacular, sustained climb with four 40 meter epic pitches on perfect overhanging limestone! Thanks to Greg Tos for putting up this gem, one of the best in the Rockies. I onsighted my two 11d leads in cool shade, Tom took the two ... Read More »

Arch Enemy (5.11d) Stanley Headwall

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Climbed Arch Enemy (7 pitch 5.11d) today on the Stanley Headwall. Absolutely spectacular route, one of the best Rockies multipitches i’ve climbed to date. In my opinion, better than Silent Auction, Marriage Box or Tall Storey, but not as good as Dreams of Verdun. Climbing next to the waterfall was rad! The crux pitch felt very hard for the grade, ... Read More »

Scared Peaches (12a Trad) Lake Louise

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Finally went for the onsight today of Scared Peaches (5.12- trad) today in Lake louise. I had been saving this route for an onsight for years, what an amazing trad line. This is literally the BEST crack i have ever climbed, and i have climbed a LOT of cracks. Totally overhung for 30 meters, sustained, and the gear is not ... Read More »

McTech Arete

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After the injured climber was successfully airlifted out of the col, we had no time left for Sunshine Crack (it was already 6pm) so we booked it over to McTech Arete, where I made use of the wide gear to climb the direct version of the route, a 45m sustained 5.10 offwidth crack, 4 to 5 inches wide the entire ... Read More »

East Face of the Mouse’s Tooth – North Joffre Creek Rock Climb

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The East Face of the Mouse’s Tooth in North Joffre creek has to be one of the finest alpine climbs in the Sea to Sky corridor, boasting miles of flawless splitters, a casual approach and a chill descent. I first climbed this route six years ago during my first season of climbing and we all epic’d pretty hard, so it ... Read More »

Nanook 5.11d Trad Squamish

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Climbed NANOOK (5 pitches 5.11d) this year, amazing new route on the north walls. Seems like we made the third ascent of the route after Drew Marshall and Duncan O’Regan climbed it a few days before us. Major thanks to Danny Guestrin and Jon Rigg for their herculean effort in cleaning, developing and FA’ING this super rad line. Nanook is ... Read More »