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Alpine Rock Trip Reports

Beckey Chouinard Bugaboos South Howser Tower

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The Beckey-Chouinard (5.10+, TD+, Grade V) is one of the most spectacular alpine climbs in North America, boasting flawless splitter cracks, a stunning position, and outrageous scenery above magnificent glaciers. We climbed it as a three-person team on one 70m rope, with Abigail tied in on a butterfly knot. I was expecting the route to take seven hours camp-to-camp, but ... Read More »

The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers – Fluffy Kitten Wall, Squamish

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Conditions as of June 2015: Exceptionally dry conditions this spring made for an early season on this climb, which normally seeps until late July. I climbed it June 16 2015 and the climb was entirely dry, with only a slightly damp section on pitch 1. The cracks are somewhat mossy as one would expect from a north wall subalpine route, ... Read More »

I Got Bit By the Mouse’s Tooth: A Lesson in Sketch

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Having gotten spanked last week on Slesse’s Northeast Buttress (I was trying to bring an absolute beginner up the hill, only her third time rock climbing), I felt like my ferocious love affair with alpine climbing was suddenly turning sour. Slesse was a real breakup with the mountains, so I needed a rebound climb and turned to Habrich to boost ... Read More »