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Alpine Rock Climbs

Beckey-Chouinard South Howser Tower (5.10+) – Bugaboos

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Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower One of the best alpine rock climbs in Canada – or anywhere on Earth! Wow. We climbed it as a three-man and trailed a rope for the third (my girlfriend) to ushba up. Fun times. Took us around 17hrs. Trip report coming one day, maybe. GO CLIMB THIS! Approach: Most parties approach from East Creek ... Read More »

Four Rules of Alpine Climbing

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1. The Leader Must Never Fall 2. Speed is Safety 3. If You’re Not Climbing, You’re Hiding 4. The Only Rule that NEVER Gets Broken: GRAVITY Read More »

The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers – Fluffy Kitten Wall, Squamish

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Conditions as of June 2015: Exceptionally dry conditions this spring made for an early season on this climb, which normally seeps until late July. I climbed it June 16 2015 and the climb was entirely dry, with only a slightly damp section on pitch 1. The cracks are somewhat mossy as one would expect from a north wall subalpine route, ... Read More »

Yak Peak – Yak Chek (5.10a)

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Yak Chek is an enjoyable excursion up the slabby face of Yak Peak, combining Yak Crack with Reality Check to maximize the rock quality on the route. Car to car, my girlfriend and I climbed this 15 pitch route in nine hours, taking it easy and enjoying the views. The rock quality wasn’t great, perhaps even worse than Slesse, and ... Read More »

Bugaboo Spire – Northeast Ridge

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We had a bit of an epic on this climb, having to pass five parties (including a group of Texans who had NEVER trad climbed before and told us to ‘get comfortable’ in their soft Texas drawl). Needless to say, we pissed some folks off on this route, but didn’t fancy spending a night on the summit. Took us 7 ... Read More »

Gimli South Ridge

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WOOHOO! What a SICK climb! The first pitch was originally graded 5.7 (!!), which turns out to be a colossal sandbag. More like 5.10a/b. Beautiful rock and perfect climbing. After the first pitch, it’s almost a scramble. Easy walk-off descent. Two hour approach to the climb on foot from the car, or 15 minutes from the camping area. Do it ... Read More »

Viennese Clark Traverse – Chehalis

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Crazy that nobody goes out to the Chehalis anymore. The access is great! And WOW, what a campsite! We were SO STOKED on this trip, damn. My girlfriend got stung by dozens of bees (they were nesting all over the trail). And I’m deathly allergic but don’t carry an epi-pen. So hiking the trail (and it’s LONG) was way, way ... Read More »

Mount Slesse – NE Buttress

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As a three-person team, we totally underestimated the length of the route and ended up benighted on a tiny ledge a few pitches beneath the summit with a wicked thunderstorm approaching and minimal bivy gear .. full trip report coming (eventually) Read More »