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Alpine Rock Climbs

West Ridge of Pigeon Spire – Bugaboos Classic

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After getting weathered off the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard the day before our successful ascent, we slogged dejectedly back to camp in search of a consolation prize; the West Ridge of Pigeon, a classic 5.4 ridge traverse that none of us had ever climbed. We started soloing at 6pm and were up and down the mountain in under an hour. ... Read More »

Sisyphys Summits (5.11a) Ha Ling

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Sisyphus Summits on Ha Ling was a trip! Supposedly the longest sport climb north of Mexico, this 23 pitch 5.10d/11a felt a lot easier than the grade. I expected the climb to take under four hours so we started at 1:30pm, but due to some bizarre rope issues and the fact that it was Abi’s first time climbing limestone (and ... Read More »

Arch Enemy (5.11d) Stanley Headwall

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Climbed Arch Enemy (7 pitch 5.11d) today on the Stanley Headwall. Absolutely spectacular route, one of the best Rockies multipitches i’ve climbed to date. In my opinion, better than Silent Auction, Marriage Box or Tall Storey, but not as good as Dreams of Verdun. Climbing next to the waterfall was rad! The crux pitch felt very hard for the grade, ... Read More »

McTech Arete

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After the injured climber was successfully airlifted out of the col, we had no time left for Sunshine Crack (it was already 6pm) so we booked it over to McTech Arete, where I made use of the wide gear to climb the direct version of the route, a 45m sustained 5.10 offwidth crack, 4 to 5 inches wide the entire ... Read More »

East Face of the Mouse’s Tooth – North Joffre Creek Rock Climb

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The East Face of the Mouse’s Tooth in North Joffre creek has to be one of the finest alpine climbs in the Sea to Sky corridor, boasting miles of flawless splitters, a casual approach and a chill descent. I first climbed this route six years ago during my first season of climbing and we all epic’d pretty hard, so it ... Read More »

Sailor Jerry (5.10d) Gimli Little South Face – Valhallas

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Exploring a new route in the Valhallas called Sailor Jerry (5.10d, put up by Cam Shute). Here I am runout, off-route, and trying to figure out how not to die… Sailor Jerry Gimli Read More »

The Gift (5.11c) Wolf’s Ears – Valhallas

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Gave up on Sailor Jerry and went to climb The Gift (5.11c) on the Wolf’s Ears .. where I was even more runout, a little less off-route, and still trying to figure out how not to die. If the first pitch doesn’t scare you enough, try pitch #2 … Read More »

Asulkan Traverse – Rogers Pass

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The Asulkan Traverse (traverse of the Asulkan Peaks) is one of my favorite alpine traverses in Canada, rivalled only by the Viennese-Clark Traverse in the Chehalis! The hardest pitch on the Asulkan is 5.7, but it sure didn’t feel like something I wanted to solo. That’s the only pitch worth roping up for, if you are comfortable climbing knife-edge 4th ... Read More »

Beckey-Chouinard South Howser Tower (5.10+) – Bugaboos

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Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower One of the best alpine rock climbs in Canada – or anywhere on Earth! Wow. We climbed it as a three-man and trailed a rope for the third (my girlfriend) to ushba up. Fun times. Took us around 17hrs. Trip report coming one day, maybe. GO CLIMB THIS! Approach: Most parties approach from East Creek ... Read More »

Four Rules of Alpine Climbing

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1. The Leader Must Never Fall 2. Speed is Safety 3. If You’re Not Climbing, You’re Hiding 4. The Only Rule that NEVER Gets Broken: GRAVITY Read More »