We had a bit of an epic on this climb, having to pass five parties (including a group of Texans who had NEVER trad climbed before and told us to ‘get comfortable’ in their soft Texas drawl). Needless to say, we pissed some folks off on this route, but didn’t fancy spending a night on the summit. Took us 7 hours round-trip from Applebee. We saw a LOT of headlamps on the summit that night, and then a gnarly snow/ice storm hit. Nobody got too seriously fucked up out there as far as I know .. but if 5.8 is your grade you should NOT be climbing 5.8 alpine. C’mon folks!
Bugaboo Spire – Northeast Ridge