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Beckey-Chouinard South Howser Tower (5.10+) – Bugaboos

Beckey-Chouinard South Howser Tower (5.10+) – Bugaboos

Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower
One of the best alpine rock climbs in Canada – or anywhere on Earth! Wow. We climbed it as a three-man and trailed a rope for the third (my girlfriend) to ushba up. Fun times. Took us around 17hrs. Trip report coming one day, maybe. GO CLIMB THIS!

Approach: Most parties approach from East Creek Campground (about 1hr to the base of the pitched climbing), while other (very fit parties) approach from Applebee Dome (at least 3-4hrs to the base of the pitched climbing). I recommend hiking from Applebee to the Pigeon-Howser Col, make a bivy there. Climb the route the next day, returning to Pigeon Howser Col bivy at the end of the climb. Then hike back to Applebee, or sleep another night at Pigeon-Howser (which is what we did). It makes for a more casual climb.

Notes:
* Use a 70 meter rope
* Descent can be done with a 60 meter rope, but 70 is highly recommended
* Bivy in Pigeon-Howser Col
* Crampons and ice axes are PROBABLY not needed, if you can make it safely down Pigeon-Howser col

BeckeyChouinard

SouthHowserRappels

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About Canadian Rock Climber

I am professional Canadian rock climber, author, nutrition researcher, adventurer, writer and (sometimes) poet.

One comment

  1. Has the rap route on South Howser ever been climbed? It looks like it could actually be pretty good! Especially those splitters at the bottom.

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