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Author Archives: Canadian Rock Climber

Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12) – Oregon Jack

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Made a short expedition to Oregon Jack Park outside Cache creek. This is a place with huge limestone walls and tons of potential; if this canyon were located in France, there would be hundreds of routes. As it is, I saw barely a dozen. We ventured off the beaten path (literally, it’s a schwack..) to find Jedi Mind Tricks (5.12), ... Read More »

NASR (as in ‘not a sport route’)

nasr

This is pretty much the only good moderate trad climb at Roche Lake – but it is a good one! Two bolts protect the lower crux then a really fun crack eats up your gear and leads to the top of the wall. FUN. Read More »

Photophobia (5.10d) – 5 Pitches

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First real rock climbing day of the season (sport climbing doesnt count) and jumped on Photophobia (5.10d trad, 5 pitches) to beat the crowds and the sun. This climb has a bit of everything, including steep hand crack, chimney work and slab. Deserves to be WAY more popular. Very classic! Read More »

Horrors of Ivan (5.11c)

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The Horrors of Ivan (5.11+) is an amazing mixed climb, but I was a bit nervous after hearing how my friend Thomas (a very strong climber) ripped all his gear and decked on it. The gear at the crux is bomber but a little tricky to find at first. Definitely among the best of the grade in Squamish! Dries super ... Read More »

One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (5.10c) 5 Pitches

onescoop

Casual slab climbing on the Apron. We climbed the classic One Scoop with Delicious Dimples (5.10+) which offers excellent sustained 5.10 slab work. Less runout than White Lightning but still a few ‘heads up’ moves. Makes a good early season head warmup. Read More »

Prestidigitator (5.12c) – Morning Glory Wall, Skaha

prestidigitator

Prestidigitator is a classic 5.12c at Morning Glory but much harder since a hold broke off, more like 5.12d or even 5.13a. I found it very hard and had trouble pulling the crux move, definitely harder than many 5.13s I have climbed! Read More »

Dreams Be Dreams (5.12b) – Maternal Wall, Skaha

dreamsbedreams

Two major cruxes define this route; one technical, the other burly. Possibility of big but safe airtime at the second crux! This is definitely a must-do classic in Skaha, with steep overhanging pumpy climbing the entire way. A sandbag at 5.12b … Read More »

Lost in Paradise (5.11d) Skaha

lostinparadise

Lost in Paradise (5.11d) is a stellar juggy route at Werbworld and one of the best of its grade at Skaha. Big moves to big holds and big pump! Tried it once a couple years ago and whipped off, but got it first go this year. FUN Read More »

Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) – Skaha

hackerandgasman

The Hacker and the Gasman (5.12a) at Morning Glory wall in Skaha is an under-rated 5.12a, given 1 star in the book but this route is easily 2 or 3 stars. An easy start leads to cruxy moves over a bulge on decent crimps, followed by easy 5.10 climbing to a final 5.11+ crux that guards the chains. Really fun! ... Read More »

Fuck Megos (5.12b) – First Ascent

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Climbed a first Ascent on Diamondback today in SKAHA. Fuck Megos (5.12b) bolted and FA to Jesse James. It’s an extension to the very popular route On Yer Bike and goes all the way to the top of the wall. The crux is safe but the bolt is below your feet , miss the crux and you whip. The upper ... Read More »