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Author Archives: Jesse James

Free Soloing Talking Holds

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Jesse James soloing Talking Holds, overhanging 5.10 hand crack in the Squamish Smoke Bluffs .. Read More »

Free Soloing on McTech Arete

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We unroped for some fun free soloing on the Bugaboos classic McTech Arete .. Read More »

McTech Direct (Solid 5.10 Offwidth) – Bring the BIG STUFF!!

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After the injured climber was successfully airlifted out of the col, we had no time left for Sunshine Crack (it was already 6pm) so we booked it over to McTech Arete, where I made use of the wide gear to climb the direct version of the route, a 45m sustained 5.10 offwidth crack, 4 to 5 inches wide the entire ... Read More »

Blue Jeans (5.13c) – Incredible Hard Yamnuska Multipitch Climb!

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Hopped on the iconic Blue Jeans (5.13b/c) today on yam. Leading the crux pitch was super rad, but Mythos might not be thre optimal shoe for that style of climbing. This was my first ever time on Yam, so fun! The cruxes weren’t crazy hard, bouldery V6/V7 but hard to link up. Definitely keen to get back on this and ... Read More »

The Early Worm (AWESOME Rockies 5.11 Sport Multipitch)

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Jumped on Dave Thomsen’s ‘Early Worm’ (5.11a 7 pitches) on Mt Bourgeau, but we were not exactly early worms, having started climbing at 5pm. This is a most excellent route with good rock, great exposure and fun slab moves. The rock is SHARP and a fall would be ill-advised unless you enjoy swimming in razorblades. Long pants? Mandatory. Read More »

Attacked by Hornets in the Ghost River, Jumped Off a Cliff to Get Away!

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Our plans to climb Booty Loader (5.12c) in the ghost were thwarted when i sauntered onto a ground nest of hideously aggressive hornets, to which i am allergic. one of the bastards mauled me so i dove down a very steep talus embankment, tumbling a good 50 meters with five or six of the beasts in hot pursuit. Got pretty ... Read More »

Lake Lakit Is Sweet!

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Fun climbing bomber white quartzite at Lake Lakit! This is mostly a sport venue with steep overhanging routes, but some of the lines definitely go on gear. I climbed one five star line skipping all the bolts at 5.10+R. Every route we climbed at this crag was stellar..two minute approach and great free camping right at the crag. This is ... Read More »

Fisher Spires – West Kootenays – Amazing Place!

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Spent a few days out at the Fisher Spires in the Kootenay rockies. Amazing place with great rock, but not so easy to find. We climbed some excellent 60 meter sport pitches on the Great White Wall, only a thirty minute bushwhack from camp. Hiked up to the Finger of Fate just below the summit of Mt Fisher, but the ... Read More »

Lake Lakit – Air Mail (5.12c)

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Last day at Lake Lakit and i just missed the onsight of one of the sweetest routes in the east Kootenays, Air Mail (5.12+). Got it third go. Abigail sent her 10d project – time to move on to some different crags! Read More »

Great Kootenay Corner (5.11 Trad)

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The Great Kootenay Corner (5.11) is one of the sweetest trad routes in the West Kootenay, boasting flawless granite, a stellar position in a box canyon, good pro and fantastic views. Good value for the money with over 40 meters of steep corner climbing! Read More »