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Author Archives: Jesse James

West Ridge of Pigeon Spire – Bugaboos Classic

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After getting weathered off the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard the day before our successful ascent, we slogged dejectedly back to camp in search of a consolation prize; the West Ridge of Pigeon, a classic 5.4 ridge traverse that none of us had ever climbed. We started soloing at 6pm and were up and down the mountain in under an hour. ... Read More »

Sisyphys Summits (5.11a) Ha Ling

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Sisyphus Summits on Ha Ling was a trip! Supposedly the longest sport climb north of Mexico, this 23 pitch 5.10d/11a felt a lot easier than the grade. I expected the climb to take under four hours so we started at 1:30pm, but due to some bizarre rope issues and the fact that it was Abi’s first time climbing limestone (and ... Read More »

Silent Auction (5.12c)

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One of my goals for the summer is to climb the 15 hard rockies classic multipitch sport climbs featured in Gripped Magazine. Me and my buddy Tom Anderson had planned to get on the ultra classic Blue Jeans (13b) today on Yam, but the sun and late start discouraged us. Instead we hopped on Silent Auction (5.12c), a new route ... Read More »

Beckey Chouinard Bugaboos South Howser Tower

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The Beckey-Chouinard (5.10+, TD+, Grade V) is one of the most spectacular alpine climbs in North America, boasting flawless splitter cracks, a stunning position, and outrageous scenery above magnificent glaciers. We climbed it as a three-person team on one 70m rope, with Abigail tied in on a butterfly knot. I was expecting the route to take seven hours camp-to-camp, but ... Read More »

Dodging Wives (5.11c) Saddleback Lake Louise

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Ticked off another one of Gripped Magazine’s classic 15 hard rockies multipitch climbs with a clean onsight ascent of Dodging Wives (5.11c) on Saddleback. This is definitely one of the best short multipitch sport routes in the Rockies with 4 pitches of perfect rock and consistently perplexing climbing. My buddy led the first pitch in approach shoes, i took the ... Read More »

Marriage Box (5.12a) Grotto Canyon

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Climbed the amazing four pitch Marriage Box (5.12a) on Tall Storey Wall in Echo Canyon – what a spectacular, sustained climb with four 40 meter epic pitches on perfect overhanging limestone! Thanks to Greg Tos for putting up this gem, one of the best in the Rockies. I onsighted my two 11d leads in cool shade, Tom took the two ... Read More »

Accident In Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col

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I’ve seen dozens of accidents over the years, many of them in the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. The worst was when a gym climber, green to the mountains and oblivious to the dangers of steep snow, sans crampons or ice axe, took one step off the top of the col and immediately lost her footing, her boot shooting out from under her ... Read More »

Arch Enemy (5.11d) Stanley Headwall

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Climbed Arch Enemy (7 pitch 5.11d) today on the Stanley Headwall. Absolutely spectacular route, one of the best Rockies multipitches i’ve climbed to date. In my opinion, better than Silent Auction, Marriage Box or Tall Storey, but not as good as Dreams of Verdun. Climbing next to the waterfall was rad! The crux pitch felt very hard for the grade, ... Read More »

To Abigail, Mountaineer Extraordinaire

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When first we met, you hardly could climb You couldn’t tell a col from a nursery rhyme In no time at all, you determined to lead, The only thing lacking was your skills and your speed Stouthearted and bold, you untied from the rope Then people looked up, and said ‘who’s that dope?’ Free solo and sketch, we all thought ... Read More »

Scared Peaches (12a Trad) Lake Louise

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Finally went for the onsight today of Scared Peaches (5.12- trad) today in Lake louise. I had been saving this route for an onsight for years, what an amazing trad line. This is literally the BEST crack i have ever climbed, and i have climbed a LOT of cracks. Totally overhung for 30 meters, sustained, and the gear is not ... Read More »